The wonderful World of Herbs

Text and Photos

Füsun Atalay Copyright © 2004

The aromatic journey of herbs begins with early tribal campfires, where the burning of resinous perfumes to entrance and captivate. It continues with Qwoods created an uplifting olfactory sensation and brought harmony to the tribes.

It continues with the legend of Venus, first to use ueen of Sheba bringing exotic resins to King Solomon; the Magi bringing fragrances of enlightenment to the infant Jesus; and Cleopatra havingthe sails of her barge soaked in her favourite perfume, Cyprinum, to charm Anthony.

Herbs have not only been used for their fragrances and for medicinal purposes, but also for flavouring dishes throughout the ages. The sweet, sharp smell of basil blending with garlic in olive oil, chive butter drizzled on steamed vegetables, sprigs of rosemary on sizzling lamb, the sweet aroma of cardamom or cinnamon in baking are just some of the ingredients that heighten our anticipation of culinary pleasures to come.

The most popular herbs used in Newfoundland, as well as in other Canadian kitchens, are easy to grow and, used wisely, they can turn any type of cooking into a special event.

Rory MacPherson, executive chef of the Fairmont Newfoundland Hotel in St. John’s, says he uses fresh herbs in a lot of the dishes he serves, because “they give so much more to a dish. Herbs add a freshness and flavour, plus more vitamins to the dish as well.” He will use any herbs he can get his hands on, including parsley, basil, tarragon, dill, rosemary, savoury, cilantro, lemon verbana and chives.

Among my personal favourites is basil, an essential in Italian cooking, sauces and tomato salads. I prize chives for their extensive culinary applications as well as their beautiful silhouettes in the garden. One of my year-round favourites, cilantro, is used extensively in Indian, Chinese, Thai and Mexican cooking. Last but not least, I could not imagine my kitchen without parsley, mint and oregano — fresh or dried.

Growing herbs in attractive beds in your garden is not only convenient for picking to add to special dishes, but it can also provide an enjoyable setting for dining al fresco during the much anticipated but short-lasting summer.

An ever-growing range of fragrant leaves and petals which survive in the Newfoundland climate can also turn salads and garnishes into a gastronomic adventure. Chives, dill, honeysuckle, nasturtium, rose, rosemary, sweet pea and sweet violet offer edible flowers which can add visual and textural pleasure to our palates. One can always experiment and move from the familiar to more exotic and complex tastes.

“I use edible flowers — nasturtium, pansies or chive flowers. They are available locally in the summer,” says MacPherson. “This time of year, they are brought in from California usually, so it’s a costly venture to acquire these items in winter.”

He has a word of advice, though. “Always add flowers and herbs last to a dish; this will give an added flavour. The longer you cook an herb or flower, the more flavour that you will lose. And, whenever possible, take fresh over dried herbs, as they add more of a natural flavour.”
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In addition to their enriching flavours, certain health claims are attributed to herbs. For example, chives are not only a good source of calcium, but they are believed to strengthen nails and teeth and improve digestion.

The Roman scholar Pliny maintained that tarragon prevented fatigue, inducing pilgrims to place sprigs of it in their shoes before setting out on long journeys.

Mint has its many uses, including herbal teas that help digestion and cure an upset stomach.

Several culinary traditions offer a final dish which includes aromatic seeds with digestive properties.

In England, caraway seeds were served with apples and cheese at the end of a meal.

Many Indian restaurants offer a mix of roasted seeds to nibble after a rich meal, which also serves as a breath freshener.

Whether they are used fresh or dried, herbs add more flavour and excitement to our food and supply our bodies with valuable nutrients.
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Chive Cheese Butter

1/2 cup butter at room temperature
1-1/2 cup blue cheese or cream cheese
2 tsp. fresh, chopped chives

Blend butter, cheese and chives thoroughly. Shape into a roll on waxed paper. Refrigerate until ready to use, allowing about one hour to harden. Use slices of this butter on new potatoes, tofu, and steamed vegetables.

Dill and Mustard Dip

1 cup good mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. sour cream
1 Tbsp. coarse mustard
several dill fronds, chopped finely

Stir all together until well combined. Chill. Goes well with hard-boiled eggs, smoked fish, cold chicken and pork.

Chicken with Fresh Dill

2 cups plain yogurt
2 cups fresh snipped dill
4 scallions, sliced thinly
1 tbsp. finely grated, peeled ginger root
1-1/2 Tbsp. ground cumin
1-6 fresh hot peppers (to taste)
3 tbsp. lemon juice
2-1/2 tsp. salt
8 chicken breast halves, skinned
5 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1-inch cinnamon stick
6 whole cloves

In a bowl, whisk the yogurt well. Add the dill, scallions, ginger root, cumin, hot peppers, lemon juice, 1/2 tsp. salt and black pepper and combine well.

Sprinkle the chicken on both sides with pepper and salt. In a heavy, large, deep skillet, heat the oil over moderately high heat until it is hot but not smoking; add the cinnamon stick and cloves and cook for 5 seconds, stirring. Brown the chicken in the spiced oil in batches, transferring it, as it is browned, to a bowl. Return the chicken to the skillet with any juices that have accumulated in the bowl, add the yogurt mixture and bring to a boil.

Cover and simmer the mixture, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes. This dish may be prepared up to this point 2 days ahead and kept covered and chilled. Remove the lid and boil the mixture uncovered for 5-10 minutes or until liquid is reduced to a thick sauce. Serves 8.

Source: Gourmet Magazine, March 6, 1989

Herbed Carrot Cornmeal Loaf

1 cup cornmeal
1 cup flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
1 cup grated carrots
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
2 Tbsp. chopped chives
1/2 tsp. dried marjoram
1 cup sour cream
2 eggs
1/2 cup melted butter

Combine the first five ingredients in a bowl. In a separate bowl, mix the rest of the ingredients. Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and pour in the carrot mixture. Stir together quickly just until all is moistened (do not overmix).

Spoon into greased and floured loaf pan and bake at 350 F for one hour or use a greased 8-inch square pan and bake for 25-30 minutes. This tastes even better the next day.

Aniseed Cookies

Made with half the sugar of regular cookies, these biscuits are also excellent as an accompaniment to a cheese board.

7 Tbsp. butter, cut into small pieces
2 Tbsp. super fine sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. cornstarch
1 tbsp. finely ground almonds
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
2 tsp. dried ground aniseed (or poppy seeds)
1 egg

In a food processor, cream butter with sugar until smooth. Add the rest of the ingredients and process just until dough comes together. Dust the dough with flour, wrap in plastic wrap and chill for half an hour.

Sprinkle work surface with flour and roll dough to 5 mm thickness. Cut out 5-cm circles and place on a baking tray. Whisk another egg in a small dish, brush the tops of cookies with this glaze. Bake in a preheated 375 F oven for 12 to 15 minutes. Allow to harden a little before removing to a wire rack to cool completely. Yield: about 18 cookies.