The Beet Goes On . . .

Text and Photos by: FÜSUN ATALAY ~ Copyright 2007

"The beet is the most intense of vegetables. The radish admittedly is more feverish, but the fire of the radish is a cold fire, the fire of discontent, not of passion. Tomatoes are lusty enough, yet there runs through tomatoes an undercurrent of frivolity. Beets are deadly serious."

~ Tom Robbins ~

Easy to prepare, delicious to eat, beats are a great bargain when you buy them with their greens attached. Many of us think of only the beet roots, pickled or boiled as a side dish, when we speak of beets. But did you know that you can also use the greens in many ways ?

Consider yourself getting a two-for-one deal when you buy beets with their green tops attached because you can use both the leaves and the roots in separate recipes. Beat greens are very much like Swiss chard; so treat them the same in cooking. Chop the tougher red stems into 2 cm pieces, saute an onion in a little oil and add the chopped stems. After about ten minutes, add the chopped greens, 1/4 cup of liquid, a pinch of salt and cook for another ten minutes

Surprisingly, neither the stems nor the leaves lose much of their color during the cooking process and you end up with a nutritious, vibrant green and red cooked vegetable to serve with chicken, meat or eggs; or use as a filling to replace spinach in phyllo pastry.

roots are just as versatile as the greens. They can be baked, boiled, braised, pickled, roasted, steamed or used raw in salads. Roasting in their skins keeps their natural sweetness and color intact. Wrap each beet in foil, place on a baking sheet and bake in a 400 degree oven for about 40 minutes.

After they have cooled, you can rub the skins off by holding the beet between a paper towel or using a paring knife.

Now the possibilities are many. A little drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of sea salt turns these ruby red jewels, diced or sliced, into a perfect side dish.

Raw or cooked, beets lend themselves to many stunning salad recipes that look as good on the plate as they taste on the palate. Grated or sliced they pair favorably with Feta or blue cheese; pecans or walnuts; fresh mint, dill or coriander. Red onions or scallions give them a zing and orange, lime or lemon juice, as well as balsamic vinegar emulsified with olive oil offer a light vinaigrette. Sliced apples, pears, orange segments love to appear next to these intensely colored vegetables on a bed of endives or bib lettuce

Then there is Borscht.

Although there are many variations of this Eastern European Jewish dish, borscht is basically a simple broth-based soup mixed with diced beets cooked in their liquid, citrus juice, salt, fresh herbs, chopped onions and a dollop of sour cream.

I like serving my own version of cold borscht in the summer. With the addition of plain yogurt, chicken broth , chopped cucumbers, scallion and fresh dill it makes a light, nourishing and refreshing soup— a perfect food for the hot summer days.

You can find many recipes on the web, in cook books or magazines showing how to use these versatile roots and their greens. From soups to salads to even chocolate cakes, beets are indeed tough to beat.

Summer Borscht Serves 6

4 medium fresh beets
2 teaspoons sea salt
2 cups fat-free chicken stock
1-1/2 cups beet cooking liquid
1 cup plain yogurt
2 Tablespoons sugar
2 Tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 English cucumber, peeled and diced
2 scallions, chopped
1 Tablespoon fresh coriander, chopped
5 sprigs fresh dill

Cook beets in a large pot of water for 30 to 40 minutes or until the beets are tender. Remove the beets to a bowl and set aside to cool. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve and allow to cool.

In a large bowl, whisk together 1 1/2 cups of the beet cooking liquid, the chicken stock, yogurt, sugar, lime juice, salt, and the pepper.

Peel and dice cooled beets. Add the beets, cucumber, coriander, dill and scallions to the bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for 4 to 8 hours. Adjust seasoning, stir and serve cold with a sprig of fresh dill.

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Heart of Lightness

Story and Photos by: FÜSUN ATALAY ~ Copyright © 2007

Eating an artichoke is a bit like eating a lobster: a hands-on, leisurely, social affair. Amidst glasses of cold refreshments and lively conversation with family or friends, you crack the shell, dig out minuscule bits of flesh and dismantle the lobster to claim your reward: that sweet, succulent tail meat.

This quest is similar to dismantling an artichoke. To get at the delectable heart of the matter you must pluck each petal and scrape the pulp at its base between your teeth. Eventually you will reach the delicious, tender heart protected under the gauntlet of the inedible, prickly choke which you discard. But the journey can be quite fun as you dip each petal into a savory sauce and eat the succulent part as you advance towards the treasure.

I didn’t taste a lobster until I was a teenager, but one of my favourite childhood veggies — the artichoke — showed up in many varieties on our dinner table. My favourite, however, was the simplest: steamed artichokes, chilled and served with lemon butter. I had no idea then that I was consuming a thistle which dates back thousands of years, and that at one time it was considered to be the food of the ancient Roman nobility.

Nor did I know the benefits of artichokes for proper functioning of the liver, gall bladder and kidneys; or their being excellent sources of vitamins A and C, calcium, potassium, iron and magnesium. All that mattered was they tasted good.

Artichokes are available all year round with two peak seasons from March to May and September to December. Artichoke hearts are sold marinated in jars, as well as canned in brine or oil. Some supermarkets also carry frozen, ready-to-use artichoke hearts.

In buying artichokes, select those with a bright colour that feel heavy for their size, have compact heads and tightly closed leaves. Once touched by the knife, these delectable thistles discolor quickly, but rubbing with lemon and submerging in a bowl of acidulated water retards this process. Fresh artichokes can keep up to a week at cool temperatures, and they should not be washed until ready to use.

Preparing an artichoke for cooking requires practice. Cut about a quarter from the top off and remove the outer sharp leaves close to the stem. Trim the stem so the base stands straight. Rub all over with a cut lemon.

Place artichokes and the lemon in a heavy pot with a lid. Add enough water to cover. Bring water to a boil and cook for 40-45 minutes

Test for doneness by pulling a petal from the middle row of leaves — if it comes out easily, artichokes are cooked. Remove them from water and drain upside down. Serve at room temperature or chilled (chilled artichokes are more flavourful); plain or with a simple lemon-butter sauce.

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Amazing Capers

"And we praise You, my Lord,
for our Sister Earth,
who sustains us with her fruits,
and colored flowers, and herbs!"

From the Canticle of the Saint Francis of Assisi (Giovanni Bernardone, 1181-1226) Founder of the Order of Friars Minor, Patron saint of animals, zoos, ecologists, and environmentalists

Story and Photos by: FÜSUN ATALAY ~ Copyright © 2007

I've known for a long time that capers came in small jars in brine, but I never questioned where they originated or how they got there— until I visited the Mediterranean coast of Turkey some years ago where I saw young boys along the roadside selling small baskets of green, pea-sized berries they called ‘kebere’.

I don’t know if it was the adolescent voices of those young boys eager to sell the fruits of their early morning forays into the perilous habitats of caper bushes, or the tiny, dull, green berries which I couldn’t identify as anything I’d seen before that fascinated me and aroused my curiosity.

In any case, it took a little investigation before I could make the connection between those freshly picked ‘kebere’ and the caper berries I know, pickled in brine. Ever since, however, I’ve been intrigued by these olive-green flower buds of a hardy, perennial Mediterranean bush (Capparis spinosa) that contribute to the culinary cultures of the world.

As a naturally propagated wild bush, the caper plant is not fussy about its environment and thrives in dry earth, sending roots up to 40 meters deep into rocky crevices and arid hillsides exposed to the intense July and August sun.

The flower buds are picked before they start opening—a very labour intensive, daily task. This is a job best done by young, small hands because, as innocuous as they may seem, the buds of the thorny plant are not easy to harvest. After harvesting capers are sun-dried and pickled during July and August, when the sun is at its hottest along the Mediterranean coast.

Capers are preserved in brine or vinegar, or packed in sea salt (other kind of salts may cause early deterioration of the berries) after which their shelf life becomes practically indefinite. They range in size from the tiny (French) 'nonpareils' -most sought after for their pronounced taste and delicate texture- to those as large as cocktail olives. Perhaps because of their longevity after pickling, as well as their ability to complement many native Mediterranean herbs such as basil, oregano and tarragon, capers are one of the most versatile condiments and garnish ingredients.

French, Italian, Spanish and Turkish cuisines use capers to enhance the flavours of tomato and wine sauces, mayonnaise dressings; to add a pleasant piquancy to anchovies, poultry, fish and meat dishes or spice up appetizers, egg, potato and seafood salads.

Pickled capers are found in small glass jars among olives, pickles and other condiments on the supermarket shelves. They are commonly packed in brine; however they can be also salted and sold in bulk. In the latter case rinse the excess salt before using the berries. If you are buying pickled capers, look for bottles with no sediment, and once you open the bottle refrigerate the unused portion.

It’s ironic that my chance encounter with the young ‘kebere’ pickers on the sultry hillsides of the Turkish Mediterranean coast taught me more about capers. So it seems only fitting to end with a final word of advice I received from these amazingly knowledgeable, enthusiastic youngsters : If your recipe calls for capers in a cooked sauce, add them during the last few minutes of cooking to retain their intricate flavours and aroma.


Here are two delicious recipes which use capers as an essential ingredient.

Halibut with Caper-Lemon-Butter Sauce Serves 8

8 halibut steaks,
Sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
4 Tbsp olive oil
3 shallots, chopped
4 Tbsp capers in brine, drained
freshly squeezed juice of half a lemon
1 Tbsp lemon zest, finely grated
4 Tbsp butter
1/4 cup flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, chopped

Season halibut with salt and pepper on both sides. Place 2 Tbsp oil in a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat.

Coat four fish steaks with flour and place in hot skillet. Cook, turning once, until fish is opaque and edges golden brown, (2 to 3 minutes). Transfer to a plate and keep warm. Add more oil to skillet, if necessary, and cook remaining floured halibut pieces.

When fish is cooked lower heat to medium, add remaining oil, shallots and capers to skillet. Sauté until shallots are light golden. Add lemon juice and zest, and bring to a boil. Simmer for one minute; add a pinch of salt and pepper. Remove from heat; whisk in butter and stir in parsley. Spoon over fish and garnish with slices of the remaining lemon half. Serve with oven roasted potato and fennel slices.

Pasta Puttanesca Serves 4

Quick, easy and tasty this dish is said to have originated in Naples after the local ladies of the night. Although spaghetti or linguine is the traditional, choice you can use any type of pasta on hand.

28 oz can Italian tomatoes
1/4 cup olive oil
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 Tbsp fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped
1 tsp dried chilli flakes
2 Tbsp capers, drained
1/4 cup pitted black olives, roughly chopped
6 anchovy fillets in oil, drained and chopped
1 Tbsp fresh oregano
1 lb spaghetti or linguini
1/3 cup Italian parsley, chopped
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, torn to bite-size pieces
salt and pepper, to taste

Roughly chop tomatoes ; set aside.
Boil pasta in lots of salted water
Heat oil in a pan with the garlic and rosemary, simmer gently for about a minute.
Add the chilli, anchovies, tomatoes, olives, oregano, and black pepper. Simmer 10 minutes. Add the capers and continue to simmer for 1-2 minutes more.
Meanwhile, cook pasta in boiling water to al dente, approximately 7-8 minutes.
Drain pasta ; transfer into a large serving bowl and pour the sauce over. Sprinkle chopped parsley and toss together. Serve immediately.

They Rest Facing the Sun

This is the story of a cemetery at Harbour Main that dates back to 1776, and the active efforts of one man to restore and reclaim something historic as a legacy to his community.

Text and Photography

By:

Füsun Atalay ~ Copyright © 2003

Visiting a cemetery to see the grave stones of one’s ancestors and reading the names, dates and relationships inscribed on their head stones can be a humbling experience, especially when one can trace the family back over two centuries. But occasionally time, and particularly neglect can rob people of such contemplative experiences.

The setting is Harbour Main. It’s a perfect summer day with sunshine and a mellow breeze The only sounds are those of the gulls and other sea birds. The grassy hills are covered with yellow and purple wild flowers, The water is clear and calm as a sheet, dotted with white sailboats here and there. And high up on a hill facing an arm of Conception Bay is a graveyard where stones, marking the burial plots, face the rising sun and the waters of the bay. An ideal, tranquil setting for the remains of the departed to be laid in their final resting place.

This is the story of a cemetery at Harbour Main that dates back to 1776, and the active efforts of one man to restore and reclaim something historic as a legacy to his community. Known as the Irish Cemetery this was the burial ground for people from the communities of Holyrood, Salmon Cove (Avondale), Cat’s Cove (Conception Harbour), Harbour Main and Chapel’s Cove.

Until ten years ago, when Richard Kennedy took it upon himself to restore the graveyard, stones marking names such as Woodford, Ezekiel, Kennedy, Costigan, Luce, Furey and Doyle were camouflaged by nature’s wild growth. "When I started this, you couldn’t get through here," he says. "The trees were right over my head, you couldn’t see anything."

Ever since he was a child, Kennedy had known about the cemetery which pre-dates any parish in the town by about 25 years . What he couldn’t understand though was why nobody had paid any attention to it in the past century. The site had been so badly neglected that trees and wild brush growing to a height of up to two metres had taken over the area, covering up any signs that the ancestors of many residents in the community were buried there.

He is reluctant to point to the Kennedy plot, lest there be a misunderstanding about his motives in restoring the cemetery. "I didn’t do it for this," he emphasizes. "I didn’t even know this was the original family until I found Johnny the Blunt’s will. And then I realized this is Johnny the Blunt, my great -grandfather."

In a certain light on a sunny morning, the inscriptions can be seen very clearly. "Here lies the body of James Kennedy who departed this life in 1776, aged 60 years". Although the grave of James (his great-great-great grandfather) is the first one known of his ancestors, Kennedy has no idea where the former was born. Next to the headstone of James are those of his two sons, John and Patrick. Patrick’s son, Johnny the Blunt, was Richard’s great-grandfather. In those days, many people had nicknames based on a quality of character or appearance to distinguish them from one another.

Close by is the Woodford family plot where, next to that of William Woodford’s, one can see the unusual two piece headstone of James Woodford who was buried in 1853. The Woodfords, like the Kennedys, were among the earliest residents of the area.

"Everywhere you see a stone is a burial place," points Kennedy. " When I put up the large (wooden) cross this year (at the entrance) by the picket fence, we brought up a beautiful tibia and fibula. I was amazed at how well it was preserved- you know, really, almost as good as the ones they gave us to study in the first year of medicine."

A retired pediatric surgeon in his eighties, Kennedy was the right person to come upon such a find. He adds that they tried to pick an area where he hoped that they wouldn’t strike anything, but unfortunately they did. This may well indicate the presence of some remains whose markers are no longer in existence.

The majority of the headstones at the cemetery are not ornate or expensive because "many of the people were so poor at that time that they couldn’t afford anything else," says Kennedy. Often the burial spots were simply marked with a rock. Frequently the markers are Newfoundland slate on which the names are chiselled.

On some of the Victorian stones such as the O’Keefe stone, the name of the stone carver is also visible, perpetuating not only the memory of the early inhabitants of the Catholic communities at the head of Conception Bay, but also constituting a source of great interest to scholars studying the history of stone carvers of the nineteenth century.

Dr. Cyril Burne, Chair of Irish Studies program at St. Mary’s University in Halifax, is one such scholar. He has ancestors who hail from Holyrood and Conception Harbour. Over a decade ago he photographed the then-visible stones and transcribed the words on them in the context of a larger project in Harbour Main. Unfortunately those names and dates are now lost to erosion.

The first uncovered headstone, judging by its quality and the design carved on it, may have come from Ireland. It is inscribed with the name of Costigan, a native of Kilcash of County Tipperary, Ireland who was buried in 1844 at age 54. The names of his daughters, Johanna who died at age 25, and Mary Ann who died at 22, appear on the same stone.

More of the remaining inscriptions can be read on a sunny day because the stones all face the east. Letters or dates which couldn’t be seen before stand out in clear relief when the angle of the light is right. For example, the previously unreadable inscription on one of the stones: " Here lieth the body of Matthew Hawco, died 7th of August 1813 age 15 years " is clearly legible in the mid-morning sun. "A lot of people died very young then," remarks Kennedy. "Living was anything but easy in those times".

"I’m sure there are inscriptions on all of them, but you can’t read some of them anymore. See, this is local rock," he indicates a brittle slate with the tip of his walking cane. The stones are flaking or breaking away; and the inscriptions are getting lost as a result. Kennedy wants to maintain what can be preserved so that local residents who have been searching for information about their ancestors can come to the graveyard and find out more. But keeping old headstones and grave markers in any kind of decent condition seems to be an uphill battle in the sometimes harsh Newfoundland climate.

Another stone, dated 1797 and the only one inscribed in French, is also very clear on this day due to the position of the sun. Kennedy is happy that the inscription which was invisible on previous occasions is clearly legible on this particular day. "This is an interesting stone- Lacour is a family name here," he says. " They’re supposed to have come from (the island of) Jersey, as many fisherman did centuries ago. The thing that’s fascinating to us is that whoever ‘Lecor de SBS’ was, we don’t have a clue what SBS means."

The inscription is puzzling. The first two lines read: ISI LECOR DE SBS / SE REPOS 1797. (Here lies Lecor of SBS 1797). The spelling is phonetic: ISI, for example, is modern French "ici". If Kennedy is right, and Lecor is a phonetic spelling of Lacour, then SBS is likely an abbreviated place name in Jersey, or an acronym for a religious order event hough no one recognizes it as such. On the other hand, although less likely, "lecor" may also be a phonetic spelling for "le corps" (the body), in which case SBS may be the initials of the person buried there at age 23.

In either case the initials SBS remain a mystery: It is unlikely that someone would use only the initials of a person or a place if these could not readily be identified. The simple elegance of the carving on the plain stone, nevertheless, makes this one of the most beautiful ones in the cemetery.

Moving on, Kennedy points to the row of Ezekiel stones in progression dating back to 1725. Patrick Ezekiel was Jewish. "He first came to Harbour Grace in 1700 and later married a Catholic woman in Harbour Main. He is the ancestor of all the Ezekiels in Newfoundland today."

The largest is the Gushue family stone, bearing the names of John, his wife Rachel and their son John. The inscriptions reveal that John Gushue, who expired on July 2, 1814 at 69 years of age was a "generous friend and affectionate neighbour".

Below this inscription is the name of his "beloved wife Rachel Gushue who in her 56th year departed this life on 22 July, 1814". Son John’s inscription, "who in the gloom of his lingering disease expired at the age 11 on 15 April 1817," is inscribed below his mother’s name on the massive Gushue stone.

The major task of restoration started with cutting down all trees and wild shrubbery which had uprooted and displaced many of the headstones.

At first people in the community were slow to help, as nobody was even aware of the existence of a cemetery on the land. Once Kennedy started the work, however, many residents pitched in by painting fences and doing whatever they could. Following the advice of Wade Greeley at the Newfoundland Museum now Dr. Kennedy and his helpers are numbering the stones, using India ink and other approved materials.

One can see the labour of love that went into marking the burial lots with wooden crosses, and placing the overturned headstones back into their proper position in their right places. The greatest challenge ahead now lies of protecting the old headstones and the brittle slate grave markers from the ravages of time.

"The reason this was chosen as a cemetery site," says Kennedy, "is that this must have been the centre of the community in the 1700's, because Keating’s Stage, where Sunday Mass was held in 1775, is just up from the cemetery". Because saying mass was illegal at the time, the participants in the mass were punished and sent back to Ireland.

An ironic yet significant event that followed the recovery of this cemetery is the Mass that was held in late July for the first time in many decades on the grounds. Father Fred Terry, the celebrant of the Mass also has ancestors buried there. The event has brought forth stories about the ancestors of some Harbour Maine residents.

One of these was told by Hubert Furey who was in attendance. Hubert’s great-great-grandfather George Furey, who is buried in the cemetery, was shot and killed, and many others were wounded during an election riot in the area in 1861.

Unfortunately, many stones are eroding very badly and on the slate stones, the markings are flaking off. There is really no way of conserving them short of removing the stones from the graves and setting them in a stone wall with a protective covering, as was done in one historic cemetery in Nova Scotia. But such a concept defeats the idea of erecting a grave stone in memory of a departed one.

Richard Kennedy has completed his massive plan of restoring a piece of history to the community of Harbour Main. But time is the enemy. Unless serious and significant steps are taken soon, his efforts of the last six years will have been in vain.

Copyrighted Material. All Rights belong to Füsun Atalay Copyright © 2003

Taste of the Wild ~ The magic of mushrooms

Story and Photos by: FÜSUN ATALAY ~ Copyright © 2007

Mushrooms are no longer an extra topping for pizza, or another ingredient to toss into a salad - they are the choice of many cooks for a variety of dishes. Today, the produce sections of most supermarkets carry many kinds of mushrooms that weren't there in the past. We are exposed to a fascinating array of shapes, flavours and textures as these miracles of nature conquer our creativity from sautés to grills.

Commonly considered a vegetable, mushrooms are actually fungi that thrive in the dark. They have no roots or seeds, bear no flowers, contain no chlorophyll, and they come in myriad colours, shapes and sizes. But once they're gathered, about half of their nutritional value is lost within four days, so they should be consumed as soon as possible. If you cannot consume them right away, store them in a paper bag placed within a perforated plastic bag on the shelf of your refrigerator. This way they will stay dry, breathe and remain fresh longer.

Mushrooms already contain a lot of moisture, so resist the temptation to wash them. Instead, wipe each one gently with a damp paper towel or a mushroom brush (available at cooking stores). Separate the caps from tough stems, which you can use to enhance the flavour of soups or stews.

Most wild and exotic mushrooms can cost as much per pound as an expensive cut of beef. The good thing is they don't weigh much, so a little goes a long way. Even the ordinary button mushrooms add a delicious earthiness to dishes. Moreover, mushrooms are naturally fat-free, cholesterol-free, low in calories and in sodium. Studies claim that most mushrooms contain heart-healthy potassium and pantothenic acid as well as being good sources of three B-complex vitamins-riboflavin, niacin and the antioxidant selenium.

Varieties differ in flavour and texture, but you can't go wrong sautéing almost any type of mushroom in olive oil with onion and garlic - mushrooms' best allies. Don't forget a splash of wine, the aroma of this union is simply divine. Besides marrying well with garlic, onion, olive oil and fresh herbs, these little fungi add big flavour to many dishes from grilled meats and stir-fries to pastas and risottos, and they taste great in soups, creamy sauces and omelettes.

Large mushroom caps can be filled with tasty fillings such as seasoned bread crumbs, chopped onions and peppers or cooked spinach and cheese. I like sautéeing the chopped stems with shallots and red peppers in olive oil, seasoned with salt, pepper and Italian herbs. This makes a great stuffing for the portobello caps which go into a 350-degree oven for 12-15 minutes before serving.

Here are some of the more popular types of mushrooms appearing more frequently in the vegetables aisles:

Cremini mushrooms are also known as Italian, or coffee mushrooms. They are a variety of button mushrooms with a deeper, dark brown colour

Portobello are mature cremini mushrooms with a wide, flat cap exposing their dark, almost black gills. You can buy them with or without their stems intact, but usually stems don't have much use. Portobellos make an ideal meat substitute for vegetarians because of their meaty flavour, and their firm, strong texture stands intact in grilling, roasting and tempuras.

Enoki is sometimes sold as "snowcap" because of its pure white colour. They come in clusters with long, stringy stems supporting tiny caps and are good for sprinkling on salads or in soups which don't require much cooking.

Oyster mushrooms have a chewy, soft and thick texture and a mild taste. They are called so because their caps resemble oysters shells. Their colours may vary from off-white to pink to yellow or grayish-brown.

Shiitake have been cultivated in Japan for more than a thousand years. They are grown on oak logs. Their long stems are not edible but the caps are very flavourful when they're cooked. They're sold fresh or dried and sealed in plastic bags. In the latter case, soak them in warm water for a couple of hours before using and use the liquid they were soaked in to flavour the dish.

Chanterelles are considered to be among the most easily accessible and flavourful of all exotic mushrooms. You can identify them by their trumpet-like shapes and pale yellow to reddish orange colours.

Morels are one of the more expensive mushrooms. The cone shaped brown, hollow cap bearing a honey comb-like design is a give away. Their stems tend to be tough, but their caps are ideal for dishes where a little goes a long way for an earthy, smoky flavour.

By substituting exotic, firm-textured mushrooms for the familiar white ones, you'll likely "kick your recipe up a notch." Isn't it time to bring these fungi out of the dark into the limelight and start enjoying a taste of the wild?

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The Stinking Rose

Text and Photos by : Füsun Atalay ~ Copyright © 2006

In 1861, Isabelle Mary Beeton became the most famous cookery writer in the British history when she published "Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management," in which she wrote "... the smell of this plant is generally considered offensive, and it is the most acrimonious in taste."

Much has changed since her time, and a lot for the better - especially in the fascinating world of cooking, even though it may have taken a while for the English speaking world to embrace garlic, the "offensive," stinking rose.

Today, garlic is used around the world in many ways - raw, cooked, crushed, sliced or whole. It tastes stronger raw than it does when it's cooked.

Minced garlic is stronger in taste than sliced garlic, just as roasted whole garlic has a completely different taste from crushed raw garlic.

Cooking or roasting whole garlic gives it a milder, almost a sweet taste so unlike its raw, finely chopped counterpart reserved for the real aficionados.

It should go without saying that the longer garlic cooks the more mellower it will taste - as along as the cloves are left whole.Roast an entire bulb of garlic for about 20-25 minutes in a 350° F oven. Cut about 1 inch off the top and squeeze out the pulp inside. Mash it to a purée and spread it on toasted bread or flavour your favourite recipes. Simply delicious!

But first, it's important to know the difference between a bulb (sometimes called head) and a clove.

Garlic is a plant of the genus allium and it grows under the ground in large bulbs, covered by an off-white, papery skin. Anywhere from 10 to 20 individual cloves with a pinkish skin can be found inside each bulb.

Leeks, onions and shallots are garlic's well-known cousins in the Alliaceae family. Cultivated garlic (allium sativum) is what is most commonly sold in the supermarkets.

Occasionally, one may see the elephant garlic which may look attractive because of its huge cloves, but as far as taste goes it is very mild and a poor substitute for "The Real McClove."When buying garlic, seek firm bulbs with plenty of papery layers. If green shoots are visible, don't buy it. A garlic bulb that's past its prime will crumble when you squeeze it slightly between your fingers.

Store garlic bulbs in a cool and dry place away from direct light. Specially designed earthenware garlic keepers with air holes are ideal for storage because they allow the bulbs to breathe as the air circulates. Refrigerator or a plastic bag is not a friendly environment for garlic because it will cause mould.

A chopping board, a chef's knife and some coarse salt are the best tools for chopping garlic. Sprinkle coarse salt on the chopping board, place the garlic clove on it and give it a good "whack" with the flat part of the blade. Then proceed to chop the smashed clove as finely as you desire.The salt absorbs the exuding juices as well as providing a stable bed for the chopping. However, if you're finicky about having garlic odour on your hands, use a garlic crusher.

Aside from its culinary popularity, this "stinking rose" has also has enjoyed an unparalleled reputation in mythology and folk medicine for its health giving properties. In the 19th century Louis Pasteur discovered - under laboratory conditions - that bacterial cells ceased to exist when they were saturated with garlic.

Albert Schweitzer used garlic in treating typhus and cholera, while British doctors relied on its antibacterial powers in treating the wounded during a battle in the Second World War.

A number of modern studies confirm that garlic is definitely effective against many bacteria, fungi and viruses and should be considered as an aid in fighting certain infections.

Next time you want to reach for a natural and powerful antibiotic, crush some raw garlic and add it to your cooked soup or stew shortly before serving it.

Worried about unpleasant smelling breath afterwards? Chewing raw parsley is a commonly recommended panacea to alleviate this condition.

Pilâki Serves 4

This family recipe with Romano beans, carrots, potatoes and garlic in an olive-oil tomato sauce is a delicious vegetarian meal that is eaten at room temperature.

1/4 cup olive oil
1 small onion, chopped

10-12 garlic cloves, peeled, left whole

1/3 cup diced tomatoes

1 large potato, cubed

2 stalks celery, sliced

2 carrots, sliced

1/2 cup water

1 -28 oz can Romano beans, drained

salt and black pepper to taste

1/4 cup chopped parsley

lemon slices, for garnish

In a saucepan heat oil and saute onions. Add garlic cloves and diced tomatoes, cook for a minute. Stir in potatoes, carrots and celery; season with salt and pepper, add water, cover and simmer over medium heat until vegetables are tender but firm (about 10 minutes). Add Romano beans, stir to mix and cook for another 10 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley and garnish with lemon slices. Serve at room temperature with extra squeeze of lemon juice.

Slow Cooked Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic Serves 6

3 sprigs fresh thyme

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2 sprigs fresh sage

4 springs fresh Italian (flat) parsley

40 cloves garlic, unpeeled

1 Tsp kosher salt

1/2 tsp ground black pepper

2 kg whole chicken

3 stalks celery, cut in half

French bread,sliced and toasted

Place 1 sprig thyme, rosemary, sage and parsley in chicken cavity. Place celery on stoneware in a criss cross pattern. Rest chicken on top of celery. Add garlic cloves around chicken. Chop and sprinkle remaining herbs, salt and pepper over chicken.Cover cook on Low setting 8-10 hours or on High setting 4-6 hours. Do not open the cover during cooking.To serve, place chicken, garlic and celery on serving plate. Squeeze roasted garlic out of skins onto toasted bread slices and spread with a knife.

Incredible Cranberries

Cranberries have antibacterial effects on the body and contain plant pigments called bioflavonoids which help repair molecules damaged when the body uses up oxygen.

Text and Photography By: Füsun Atalay ~ Copyright 2004 ©

If the only image the word cranberry evokes is a sumptuous dinner table laden with a roasted regal bird, steaming vegetables and a bowl of deep ruby-red sauce shimmering under the lights, think again.

Without even knowing about its health benefits, its appearance and taste are enough to make cranberries a popular fruit. Its essential role in maintaining good health is simply an added bonus.

We are exposed daily to potential sources of free radical products, from tobacco smoke to the sun’s ultra-violet radiation. A free radical is any molecule with an odd number of electrons. These unstable molecules try to stabilize themselves by stealing an electron from another molecule. The cells in the body where this process occurs may become injured and cause cell malfunction or even malignancies.

To neutralize the free radicals produced in our system, our bodies produce antioxidants by extracting energy from the foods we eat. However, the body’s natural antioxidant production can be impaired severely under certain stressful conditions. That is when the right nutrients are of paramount importance.

Fruits and vegetables, including cranberries, provide an excellent source of additional antioxidants. The Canada Food Guide recommends eating five servings of fruit a day. One serving of cranberries is half a cup (55 grams) of whole fruit, or three quarters of a cup (180 ml) of 100 per cent juice.

Health benefits

Since 1984, cranberries have been known for a number of health benefits, the most important of which is preventing urinary tract infections (UTI) by inhibiting E. coli bacteria from attaching to the urinary tract wall.The therapeutically beneficial ingredients of cranberries are in the skin, seeds and fibre. The stringent taste of the fruit comes from the tannins that act as strong disinfectants, preventing micro-organisms from adhering to the cell lining of the urinary tract.

A 1998 study from Tel Aviv University, Israel, suggested that through the same type of anti- adhesion mechanism, compounds in cranberries may help inhibit other bacteria associated with gum disease.

Cranberries may also help slow the aging pro-cess, as certain compounds found in them promote protection against neurodegenerative diseases, and the memory and co-ordination losses often associated with aging.

Although more research is needed in this area, a preliminary study in April 2000 at the University of Western Ontario found that daily consumption cranberry products "inhibited the development of tumours in mice injected with human breast cancer cells."

Ongoing research shows that cranberries are a health mine, with the ability to decrease total cholesterol and LDL, or bad cholesterol, and increase blood flow to maintain cardiovascular health.Cranberries are rich in flavonoids, the phytonutrients that have been shown to inhibit certain types of cancer.

Keeping cranberries


Fresh cranberries can be stored in the crisper section of the refrigerator for up to a month. If I don’t plan to use them right away, I transfer them into a freezer bag before placing them in the freezer. There, they can stay frozen for up to a year; once thawed, they will become quite soft, so they should be used quickly.

Before storing, you should discard any soft, discoloured or shrivelled berries. Cranberries may look damp when they’re taken out of the refrigerator, but this doesn’t mean they’re spoiled, unless the berries are discoloured or feel sticky or tough.

Quick serving ideas

• Sprinkle dried cranberries over cold cereal or steaming oatmeal.
• Create a tangy cranberry applesauce by mixing equal parts of fresh cranberries and peeled, cored and chopped apples.
• Combine fresh cranberries with other fruits such as apples, pears or pineapple to counter their tartness. You can also achieve the same result by adding honey or maple syrup to chopped, fresh cranberries.
• The tart taste of cranberries lends itself to replacing lemon juice or vinegar in dressings for green salads. Toss the greens with a little olive oil, then add colour and zing with a handful of cranberries.
• Mix equal parts of your favourite fruit juice, unsweetened cranberry juice and sparkling water for a slightly sweetened, refreshing spritzer.
• Add colour and nutrition to quick breads, muffin recipes or baked puddings by using dried cranberries instead of raisins.
• Mix dried cranberries with lightly roasted, salted almonds, pecans or peanuts for a wholesome snack.
The popularity of cranberries has exploded within the last decade as we find them in beverages, baked goods, condiments, snacks and savoury dishes. Here are a few of my favourite recipes from off the beaten track.


Cranberry Brie Appetizer Bites ~ Source: Ocean Spray

3/4 cup whole berry cranberry sauce
1 tsp. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon peel
24 (approx 10 cm by 10 cm) wonton wrappers
1 - 225-gram brie round

Place 3/4 cup whole berry cranberry sauce in a saucepan. Cook over medium heat until hot, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat; stir in lemon juice and lemon peel.

Meanwhile, heat oven to 350 F. Spray 24 miniature muffin cups with nonstick cooking spray. Press 1 wonton wrapper gently into each sprayed cup, allowing ends to extend above cups. Spray edges of wonton wrappers with nonstick cooking spray. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes or until bottoms of cups are beginning to brown; remove from oven.

If desired, remove rind from brie. Cut brie into 24 cubes, about 2 centimetres each. Place 1 cube in each cup; place sheet of aluminum foil over each pan to prevent excessive browning.

Return to oven. Bake 3 to 5 minutes longer or until brie is soft. Remove from oven; top each with about 1 teaspoon of cranberry mixture. Yields 24 appetizers.


Cranberry Chicken Bake ~ Serves 6

1- 1/2 cups fresh or frozen cranberries
1/4 cup margarine
3 lbs. chicken, cut up and skin removed
1 small onion, chopped
2 Tbsp. butter
2/3 cup ketchup
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 Tbsp. vinegar
1 tsp. dry mustard

In a roasting pan, melt the margarine. Add chicken and bake at 375 F for 30 minutes. While chicken is baking, saute onion in butter until soft. Stir in the rest of the ingredients and bring to a boil. Simmer 15 minutes uncovered.

Spoon over chicken and bake 30 minutes longer, turning it several times. Serve over Basmati rice.


Cranberry Apple Coffee Cake
This recipe, inspired by Robin Hood Flour, can be made year round using dried cranberries.

Topping:
2 cups apples, peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 cup brown sugar, packed
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
3/4 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 cup dried cranberries

Cake:
1 cup flour
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
2 Tbsp butter, at room temperature
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 tsp. vanilla
1 tsp. almond extract
1/2 cup plain low-fat yogurt
1/4 cup slivered toasted almonds, optional

Combine all topping ingredients in a saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring often for 5 to 7 minutes. Combine flour, baking soda and salt; set aside. Cream butter with sugar, add egg and extracts, beating until smooth. Add flour mixture and yogurt, alternately mixing after each addition. Spread batter evenly in a 20-cm greased square pan.

Arrange apple-cranberry mixture decoratively on top. (Don’t use all of the liquid rendered in cooking the apples). Sprinkle with toasted slivered almonds, if desired. Bake in preheated 350 F oven for 23 to 25 minutes or until the cake starts pulling away from the sides of the pan. Cool 10 minutes before serving.

Copyrighted Material ~ Copyright 2004 © ~ All Rights belong to Füsun Atalay