ECLECTIC WRITER

Heart of Lightness

Eating an artichoke is a bit like eating a lobster: a hands-on, leisurely, social affair. Amidst glasses of cold refreshments and lively conversation with family or friends, you crack the shell, dig out minuscule bits of flesh and dismantle the lobster to claim your reward: that sweet, succulent tail meat.

This quest is similar to dismantling an artichoke. To get at the delectable heart of the matter you must pluck each petal and scrape the pulp at its base between your teeth. Eventually you will reach the delicious, tender heart protected under the gauntlet of the inedible, prickly choke which you discard. But the journey can be quite fun as you dip each petal into a savory sauce and eat the succulent part as you advance towards the treasure.

I didn’t taste a lobster until I was a teenager, but one of my favourite childhood veggies — the artichoke — showed up in many varieties on our dinner table. My favourite, however, was the simplest: steamed artichokes, chilled and served with lemon butter. I had no idea then that I was consuming a thistle which dates back thousands of years, and that at one time it was considered to be the food of the ancient Roman nobility.

Nor did I know the benefits of artichokes for proper functioning of the liver, gall bladder and kidneys; or their being excellent sources of vitamins A and C, calcium, potassium, iron and magnesium. All that mattered was they tasted good.

Artichokes are available all year round with two peak seasons from March to May and September to December. Artichoke hearts are sold marinated in jars, as well as canned in brine or oil. Some supermarkets also carry frozen, ready-to-use artichoke hearts.

In buying artichokes, select those with a bright colour that feel heavy for their size, have compact heads and tightly closed leaves. Once touched by the knife, these delectable thistles discolor quickly, but rubbing with lemon and submerging in a bowl of acidulated water retards this process. Fresh artichokes can keep up to a week at cool temperatures, and they should not be washed until ready to use.

Preparing an artichoke for cooking requires practice. Cut about a quarter from the top off and remove the outer sharp leaves close to the stem. Trim the stem so the base stands straight. Rub all over with a cut lemon.

Place artichokes and the lemon in a heavy pot with a lid. Add enough water to cover. Bring water to a boil and cook for 40-45 minutes

Test for doneness by pulling a petal from the middle row of leaves — if it comes out easily, artichokes are cooked. Remove them from water and drain upside down. Serve at room temperature or chilled (chilled artichokes are more flavourful); plain or with a simple lemon-butter sauce.

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