Spectacular Squash

SPECTACULAR SQUASH

Winter squash comes in elongated, round, pear-shaped and scalloped shapes with flesh ranging from golden-yellow to brilliant orange. It can be stored for months in a cool basement and enjoyed in a multitude of recipes.

Text and Photo by FÜSUN ATALAY © 2007

When markets and roadside stands are piled high with mountains of colourful squash and pumpkins of many sizes and shapes, my thoughts invariably turn to Halloween and jack-o'-lanterns before images of pumpkin pies or spicy squash medleys dance before my eyes.

Then, to find solace in bidding farewell to yet another summer, I seek out recipes to welcome these ambassadors of autumn. Squash is one among many foods native North Americans introduced when Europeans first arrived. What's called squash in English actually comes from "askutasquash," the Narragansett Indian word which means green-raw-unripe. And that's how Narragansetts ate it. They probably didn't know how to use butternut squash in curried soups, acorn squash stuffed with cooked grains and dry fruits, or pumpkins in breads or coffee cakes.

Today, we identify squash as one of the many fruits of the gourd family and divide it into summer and winter squash. Both types are nutritionally healthy. The edible skin of summer squash such as zucchini or yellow crookneck provides lots of beta-carotene, whereas winter squash, whose skin is hard and inedible, is higher in iron, vitamin A, riboflavin and complex carbohydrates.

The peak season for winter squash is October through December. Most, like acorn, butternut, Hubbard and sugar pumpkins, vary slightly in texture and flavour, so they can be used interchangeably in recipes. The spaghetti squash, which requires unique treatment because of its stringy flesh, is an exception.

Watch for ...

When you shop for winter squash, look for hard, blemish-free, deep-coloured skins. The squash should feel heavy for its size and have a shiny complexion.

Cooking winter squash is as easy as cooking potatoes. You can bake, fry, mash, microwave, steam or purée squash. Boiling causes a loss in flavour and nutrients. Baking, on the other hand, concentrates the flavour and retains the nutrients. To bake, cut squash in two, remove seeds and place cut side down on a baking sheet. Add a few tablespoons of water and cover with foil. Bake in a 350 F oven for 45-60 minutes or until the pulp is tender.

Another delicious method for squash is roasting it. Peel and cut a butternut or acorn squash into chunks, toss with olive oil, salt, pepper and thyme. Place in a casserole and roast at 375 F for 35-40 minutes. You can offer the delicious yield as a side dish or puree and for a satisfying roasted butternut squash soup.

Don't forget to save the pumpkin and squash seeds to make delicious, protein-rich snacks. Rinse all pulp and strings from the seeds, spread them on a double layer of paper towels to dry for several hours. Toss with 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil and coarse salt to taste. Spread in a single layer on a baking sheet, and bake at 350 F for about 30 minutes or until golden brown, stirring every 5 to 10 minutes. Cool. Store in an air-tight container.


Chicken and Pasta in Creamy Pumpkin Sauce Serves 6

3 cups uncooked bow tie pasta
2 Tbsp butter + 1 Tbsp oil
4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, cut crosswise into 2-cm strips
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 cup cooked, mashed pumpkin or squash
1/2 cup chicken broth
3/4 cup 15 per cent cream
5-6 fresh sage leaves, julienned
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup walnuts, roughly chopped and toasted

Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain; keep warm.Meanwhile, melt butter in 12-inch skillet until it bubbles; add oil, chicken and garlic. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until chicken is no longer pink in centre (8 to 10 minutes).

Add cooked pasta.Combine pumpkin, chicken broth, whipping cream, pepper, sage and salt in medium bowl. Pour over pasta mixture; gently toss to coat. Cook over medium heat until heated through (3 to 5 minutes). Sprinkle with walnuts before serving.

Pumpkin-Spice Muffins Makes 12 muffins

2 eggs
1 /2 cup plain yogurt
1-1/4 cups pumpkin purée (canned is OK)
3/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1 /2 cup butter, melted
2-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
3 tsp baking powder
1 /2 tsp baking soda
1 /2 tsp salt
3 tsp ground cinnamon
3 tsp ground ginger
1 /2 tsp cloves
Pinch of white pepper
2/3 cups raisins

Heat oven to 350 F. Spray muffin tin with non-stick vegetable spray, set aside. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, yogurt, pumpkin purée, brown sugar and butter. In another bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, and pepper. Add the dry ingredients slowly to the wet, stirring until just mixed. Fold in the raisins.

Spoon batter equally into prepared muffin tin.Bake muffins in the middle of the oven until firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted into them comes out clean (20- 25 minutes).Remove from the tin when they're cool enough to handle. They freeze well.

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