The Stinking Rose

Text and Photos by : Füsun Atalay ~ Copyright © 2006

In 1861, Isabelle Mary Beeton became the most famous cookery writer in the British history when she published "Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management," in which she wrote "... the smell of this plant is generally considered offensive, and it is the most acrimonious in taste."

Much has changed since her time, and a lot for the better - especially in the fascinating world of cooking, even though it may have taken a while for the English speaking world to embrace garlic, the "offensive," stinking rose.

Today, garlic is used around the world in many ways - raw, cooked, crushed, sliced or whole. It tastes stronger raw than it does when it's cooked.

Minced garlic is stronger in taste than sliced garlic, just as roasted whole garlic has a completely different taste from crushed raw garlic.

Cooking or roasting whole garlic gives it a milder, almost a sweet taste so unlike its raw, finely chopped counterpart reserved for the real aficionados.

It should go without saying that the longer garlic cooks the more mellower it will taste - as along as the cloves are left whole.Roast an entire bulb of garlic for about 20-25 minutes in a 350° F oven. Cut about 1 inch off the top and squeeze out the pulp inside. Mash it to a purée and spread it on toasted bread or flavour your favourite recipes. Simply delicious!

But first, it's important to know the difference between a bulb (sometimes called head) and a clove.

Garlic is a plant of the genus allium and it grows under the ground in large bulbs, covered by an off-white, papery skin. Anywhere from 10 to 20 individual cloves with a pinkish skin can be found inside each bulb.

Leeks, onions and shallots are garlic's well-known cousins in the Alliaceae family. Cultivated garlic (allium sativum) is what is most commonly sold in the supermarkets.

Occasionally, one may see the elephant garlic which may look attractive because of its huge cloves, but as far as taste goes it is very mild and a poor substitute for "The Real McClove."When buying garlic, seek firm bulbs with plenty of papery layers. If green shoots are visible, don't buy it. A garlic bulb that's past its prime will crumble when you squeeze it slightly between your fingers.

Store garlic bulbs in a cool and dry place away from direct light. Specially designed earthenware garlic keepers with air holes are ideal for storage because they allow the bulbs to breathe as the air circulates. Refrigerator or a plastic bag is not a friendly environment for garlic because it will cause mould.

A chopping board, a chef's knife and some coarse salt are the best tools for chopping garlic. Sprinkle coarse salt on the chopping board, place the garlic clove on it and give it a good "whack" with the flat part of the blade. Then proceed to chop the smashed clove as finely as you desire.The salt absorbs the exuding juices as well as providing a stable bed for the chopping. However, if you're finicky about having garlic odour on your hands, use a garlic crusher.

Aside from its culinary popularity, this "stinking rose" has also has enjoyed an unparalleled reputation in mythology and folk medicine for its health giving properties. In the 19th century Louis Pasteur discovered - under laboratory conditions - that bacterial cells ceased to exist when they were saturated with garlic.

Albert Schweitzer used garlic in treating typhus and cholera, while British doctors relied on its antibacterial powers in treating the wounded during a battle in the Second World War.

A number of modern studies confirm that garlic is definitely effective against many bacteria, fungi and viruses and should be considered as an aid in fighting certain infections.

Next time you want to reach for a natural and powerful antibiotic, crush some raw garlic and add it to your cooked soup or stew shortly before serving it.

Worried about unpleasant smelling breath afterwards? Chewing raw parsley is a commonly recommended panacea to alleviate this condition.

Pilâki Serves 4

This family recipe with Romano beans, carrots, potatoes and garlic in an olive-oil tomato sauce is a delicious vegetarian meal that is eaten at room temperature.

1/4 cup olive oil
1 small onion, chopped

10-12 garlic cloves, peeled, left whole

1/3 cup diced tomatoes

1 large potato, cubed

2 stalks celery, sliced

2 carrots, sliced

1/2 cup water

1 -28 oz can Romano beans, drained

salt and black pepper to taste

1/4 cup chopped parsley

lemon slices, for garnish

In a saucepan heat oil and saute onions. Add garlic cloves and diced tomatoes, cook for a minute. Stir in potatoes, carrots and celery; season with salt and pepper, add water, cover and simmer over medium heat until vegetables are tender but firm (about 10 minutes). Add Romano beans, stir to mix and cook for another 10 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley and garnish with lemon slices. Serve at room temperature with extra squeeze of lemon juice.

Slow Cooked Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic Serves 6

3 sprigs fresh thyme

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2 sprigs fresh sage

4 springs fresh Italian (flat) parsley

40 cloves garlic, unpeeled

1 Tsp kosher salt

1/2 tsp ground black pepper

2 kg whole chicken

3 stalks celery, cut in half

French bread,sliced and toasted

Place 1 sprig thyme, rosemary, sage and parsley in chicken cavity. Place celery on stoneware in a criss cross pattern. Rest chicken on top of celery. Add garlic cloves around chicken. Chop and sprinkle remaining herbs, salt and pepper over chicken.Cover cook on Low setting 8-10 hours or on High setting 4-6 hours. Do not open the cover during cooking.To serve, place chicken, garlic and celery on serving plate. Squeeze roasted garlic out of skins onto toasted bread slices and spread with a knife.

Incredible Cranberries

Cranberries have antibacterial effects on the body and contain plant pigments called bioflavonoids which help repair molecules damaged when the body uses up oxygen.

Text and Photography By: Füsun Atalay ~ Copyright 2004 ©

If the only image the word cranberry evokes is a sumptuous dinner table laden with a roasted regal bird, steaming vegetables and a bowl of deep ruby-red sauce shimmering under the lights, think again.

Without even knowing about its health benefits, its appearance and taste are enough to make cranberries a popular fruit. Its essential role in maintaining good health is simply an added bonus.

We are exposed daily to potential sources of free radical products, from tobacco smoke to the sun’s ultra-violet radiation. A free radical is any molecule with an odd number of electrons. These unstable molecules try to stabilize themselves by stealing an electron from another molecule. The cells in the body where this process occurs may become injured and cause cell malfunction or even malignancies.

To neutralize the free radicals produced in our system, our bodies produce antioxidants by extracting energy from the foods we eat. However, the body’s natural antioxidant production can be impaired severely under certain stressful conditions. That is when the right nutrients are of paramount importance.

Fruits and vegetables, including cranberries, provide an excellent source of additional antioxidants. The Canada Food Guide recommends eating five servings of fruit a day. One serving of cranberries is half a cup (55 grams) of whole fruit, or three quarters of a cup (180 ml) of 100 per cent juice.

Health benefits

Since 1984, cranberries have been known for a number of health benefits, the most important of which is preventing urinary tract infections (UTI) by inhibiting E. coli bacteria from attaching to the urinary tract wall.The therapeutically beneficial ingredients of cranberries are in the skin, seeds and fibre. The stringent taste of the fruit comes from the tannins that act as strong disinfectants, preventing micro-organisms from adhering to the cell lining of the urinary tract.

A 1998 study from Tel Aviv University, Israel, suggested that through the same type of anti- adhesion mechanism, compounds in cranberries may help inhibit other bacteria associated with gum disease.

Cranberries may also help slow the aging pro-cess, as certain compounds found in them promote protection against neurodegenerative diseases, and the memory and co-ordination losses often associated with aging.

Although more research is needed in this area, a preliminary study in April 2000 at the University of Western Ontario found that daily consumption cranberry products "inhibited the development of tumours in mice injected with human breast cancer cells."

Ongoing research shows that cranberries are a health mine, with the ability to decrease total cholesterol and LDL, or bad cholesterol, and increase blood flow to maintain cardiovascular health.Cranberries are rich in flavonoids, the phytonutrients that have been shown to inhibit certain types of cancer.

Keeping cranberries


Fresh cranberries can be stored in the crisper section of the refrigerator for up to a month. If I don’t plan to use them right away, I transfer them into a freezer bag before placing them in the freezer. There, they can stay frozen for up to a year; once thawed, they will become quite soft, so they should be used quickly.

Before storing, you should discard any soft, discoloured or shrivelled berries. Cranberries may look damp when they’re taken out of the refrigerator, but this doesn’t mean they’re spoiled, unless the berries are discoloured or feel sticky or tough.

Quick serving ideas

• Sprinkle dried cranberries over cold cereal or steaming oatmeal.
• Create a tangy cranberry applesauce by mixing equal parts of fresh cranberries and peeled, cored and chopped apples.
• Combine fresh cranberries with other fruits such as apples, pears or pineapple to counter their tartness. You can also achieve the same result by adding honey or maple syrup to chopped, fresh cranberries.
• The tart taste of cranberries lends itself to replacing lemon juice or vinegar in dressings for green salads. Toss the greens with a little olive oil, then add colour and zing with a handful of cranberries.
• Mix equal parts of your favourite fruit juice, unsweetened cranberry juice and sparkling water for a slightly sweetened, refreshing spritzer.
• Add colour and nutrition to quick breads, muffin recipes or baked puddings by using dried cranberries instead of raisins.
• Mix dried cranberries with lightly roasted, salted almonds, pecans or peanuts for a wholesome snack.
The popularity of cranberries has exploded within the last decade as we find them in beverages, baked goods, condiments, snacks and savoury dishes. Here are a few of my favourite recipes from off the beaten track.


Cranberry Brie Appetizer Bites ~ Source: Ocean Spray

3/4 cup whole berry cranberry sauce
1 tsp. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon peel
24 (approx 10 cm by 10 cm) wonton wrappers
1 - 225-gram brie round

Place 3/4 cup whole berry cranberry sauce in a saucepan. Cook over medium heat until hot, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat; stir in lemon juice and lemon peel.

Meanwhile, heat oven to 350 F. Spray 24 miniature muffin cups with nonstick cooking spray. Press 1 wonton wrapper gently into each sprayed cup, allowing ends to extend above cups. Spray edges of wonton wrappers with nonstick cooking spray. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes or until bottoms of cups are beginning to brown; remove from oven.

If desired, remove rind from brie. Cut brie into 24 cubes, about 2 centimetres each. Place 1 cube in each cup; place sheet of aluminum foil over each pan to prevent excessive browning.

Return to oven. Bake 3 to 5 minutes longer or until brie is soft. Remove from oven; top each with about 1 teaspoon of cranberry mixture. Yields 24 appetizers.


Cranberry Chicken Bake ~ Serves 6

1- 1/2 cups fresh or frozen cranberries
1/4 cup margarine
3 lbs. chicken, cut up and skin removed
1 small onion, chopped
2 Tbsp. butter
2/3 cup ketchup
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 Tbsp. vinegar
1 tsp. dry mustard

In a roasting pan, melt the margarine. Add chicken and bake at 375 F for 30 minutes. While chicken is baking, saute onion in butter until soft. Stir in the rest of the ingredients and bring to a boil. Simmer 15 minutes uncovered.

Spoon over chicken and bake 30 minutes longer, turning it several times. Serve over Basmati rice.


Cranberry Apple Coffee Cake
This recipe, inspired by Robin Hood Flour, can be made year round using dried cranberries.

Topping:
2 cups apples, peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 cup brown sugar, packed
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
3/4 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 cup dried cranberries

Cake:
1 cup flour
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
2 Tbsp butter, at room temperature
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 tsp. vanilla
1 tsp. almond extract
1/2 cup plain low-fat yogurt
1/4 cup slivered toasted almonds, optional

Combine all topping ingredients in a saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring often for 5 to 7 minutes. Combine flour, baking soda and salt; set aside. Cream butter with sugar, add egg and extracts, beating until smooth. Add flour mixture and yogurt, alternately mixing after each addition. Spread batter evenly in a 20-cm greased square pan.

Arrange apple-cranberry mixture decoratively on top. (Don’t use all of the liquid rendered in cooking the apples). Sprinkle with toasted slivered almonds, if desired. Bake in preheated 350 F oven for 23 to 25 minutes or until the cake starts pulling away from the sides of the pan. Cool 10 minutes before serving.

Copyrighted Material ~ Copyright 2004 © ~ All Rights belong to Füsun Atalay

Bittersweet Truth about Chocolate

Text and Photos By: FÜSUN ATALAY © 2006

Chocolate has been hailed as a health food with flavonoid-rich substances and powerful antioxidants that possibly protect the cardiovascular system and resist cell damage against free radicals. Studies carried out at the Cleaveland Clinic of Health state, " The cocoa butter in chocolate is comprised of equal amounts of oleic acid (a heart-healthy monounsaturated fat found in olive oil), stearic and palmitic acids. Stearic and palmitic acids are forms of saturated fats linked to increases in LDL-cholesterol and risk for heart disease".

Cocoa, known as Theobroma Cacao, is a rain forest herb used for thousands of years by indigenous South and Central American tribes to fight parasites, to counteract the effects of snakebites, and as a general antiseptic; yet only recently Western researchers are beginning to recognize the powerful healing properties of nature’s gift, the cocoa bean

Scientists who have been studying the chemical components of chocolate are finding that it possesses the same kinds of health-enhancing antioxidants which have already been found in red wine and green tea—and that dark chocolate contains almost five times the flavonol content of apples !

Then, isn't it time to stop taunting chocolate as junk food, and start viewing it as a whole food?

Not unless we are more knowledgeable and selective about what forms of chocolate would be ideal over others for our health; because, be all that as it may, most of the chocolate on the market is not much more than sweetened confectionary enhanced by fillers and artificial flavoring. As such, it is more detrimental to health than it is beneficial.

When cocoa is processed into chocolate products, it goes through several steps to reduce its naturally pungent taste which is provided by flavonoids (polyphenols). The more chocolate is processed through fermentation, alkalizing or roasting, the more flavonoids are lost

Flavonoids provide important protective benefits to plants, such as in repairing damage and shielding from environmental toxins. When we consume plant-based foods rich in flavonoids, it appears that we also benefit from this "antioxidant" power.

Antioxidants are believed to help the body’s cells resist damage caused by free radicals found in environmental contaminants such as cigarette smoke. When the body has inadequate levels of antioxidants, it is vulnerable to free radical damage such as increases in LDL-cholesterol, oxidation and plaque formation on arterial walls.

In addition to their antioxidant capabilities, flavonoids are also thought to affect relaxation capabilities of blood vessels and help balance of eicosanoids, which are believed to play a role in cardiovascular health
The amount of cacao in finished chocolate ranges from 7 percent to 35 percent in milk chocolate; and 30 percent to 80 percent in dark chocolate.

Your best chocolate choice is dark with at least 65% cocoa, because chocolate’s health benefits come from cocoa; the higher the percentage of cocoa, the more beneficial is the chocolate. A higher cocoa content indicates that less sugar has been added. Dark chocolate appears to retain the highest level of flavonoids; therefore it seems wise to choose dark chocolate over milk chocolate.

The culprit in most chocolate products are the additional fat and calories from other ingredients such as nuts, marshmallows, coconut and caramel.

Currently there is no established serving of chocolate to reap its cardiovascular benefits. What is known is that one no longer needs to feel guilty for enjoying a small piece of dark chocolate occasionally, while keeping in mind that there are other flavonoid-rich foods like apples

Chocolate also contains psychoactive compounds which create genuine chemical addictions while substantially altering the mood of those who eat it. Thus, those who say they're addicted to chocolate are, in fact, right.

If one really wanted the anti-cancer benefits of cocoa , one would have to find chocolate bars made with pure cocoa, and without any sugars or artificial sweeteners. That being not a very palatable choice, it would be smart not to rely on chocolate to replace other anti-oxidant rich foods, such as fruits, nuts and vegetables, which are also endowed with other health benefits.

One thing is certain though. Chocolate isn't just for fanciful desserts or luscious snacks ; it has been a key ingredient for many main dishes in Aztec and Mexican cooking. Here is one recipe that uses native chiles, nuts, spices, dry fruits and chocolate with chicken in a savoury ‘mole’ (pronounced Moh-lay) sauce

Mole Poblano de Pollo Serves 6

Mole poblano is a popular sauce in Mexican cuisine. Its name comes from the Mexican state of Puebla.

2- 1/2 to 3 lb chicken, cut into 10-12 pieces
1/4 cup olive oil
3 Tbsps raisins
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tsp cumin
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1 onion, chopped
1/4 tsp cinnamon
1 green or orange bell pepper, chopped
1/2 tsp sea salt
½ tsp black pepper
1 tsp honey
2 pimentos, chopped
2 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce, chopped
3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 squares unsweetened chocolate, chopped
2-3 Tbsp chili powder
2 1/2 cup chicken broth
1/4 cup ground almonds
cilantro, chopped for garnish

In casserole, heat oil and saute onion and garlic. Brown chicken and remove.
In remaining fat, cook bell pepper, pimento, and tomatoes over gentle heat for 10 minutes. To onion mixture, add chili powder, blend well. Add broth, almonds, raisins and seasonings. Simmer, covered, 30 minutes longer. Add chocolate, stirring until melted.

Return chicken, nestle into the sauce. Bake, covered, at 350 degrees for 1 hour, or until chicken is tender. Sprinkle with chopped cilantro and serve with rice.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

More than just the Winter Blues

Story and Photos by: FÜSUN ATALAY ~ Copyright © 2005

There’s a certain Slant of light,

Winter Afternoons —

That oppresses, like the Heft

Of Cathedral Tunes —

Heavenly Hurt, it gives us —

We can find no scar,

But internal difference,

Where the Meanings, are.

— Emily Dickinson —

Like most living things, humans have evolved under the sun. We have learned to incorporate the rhythms of night and day, darkness and light, cold and warmth, into the functioning of our bodies. Over millennia, the human body has been shaped by the seasonal changes, and has developed mechanisms to deal with these changes.

Many of us respond to these changes through our emotions and behaviour. For some of us, however, the seasonal changes can disrupt our lives.

SAD, an acronym for seasonal affective disorder, was first recognized prior to 1845, but it was not named officially until the 1980s. It is a type of clinical depression which relates to amounts of light according to seasons, and it affects approximately five per cent of Canadians.

SAD symptoms set on every year at the same time, often starting in fall or winter and ending in spring or early summer. For the sufferers, it is more than just “the winter blues.” Although the specific cause of this condition is not known, it has been observed that the lack of sunlight causes the onset of the illness. One theory suggests that decrease in sunlight alters the mood, sleep and hormone regulators in the body.

Another theory is that melatonin, a sleep-related hormone produced at increased levels in the dark and released by the brain’s pineal gland, may cause symptoms of depression. In individuals with this disorder, information from the neurotransmitters to the brain may be altered.

SAD sufferers can counteract these imbalances by exposure to light. People who suffer from SAD share many of the known signs of depression such as anxiety, sadness, loss of interest in their usual activities and withdrawal from social endeavours. Extreme fatigue and lethargy, difficulty in staying focused, increased need for sleep, a craving for sweet and starchy foods, and weight gain are other tell-tale symptoms of this disorder.

SAD doesn’t discriminate by age, class, race or occupation. It can affect anyone, although it seems to occur more in younger people and women than in men. It gets worse in countries that are far from the equator, where there is a significant difference in the length of days from summer to winter.

Many SAD sufferers come from a family where a parent or a relative is predisposed to this ailment. It is estimated that 10 per cent of the population in the United States suffers from SAD. Doctors estimate that in the United Kingdom, Australia and Canada, five per cent of the population suffer from SAD, attributing the var- iation between the countries to the difference in awareness level of the population as well as the readiness of the sufferers to seek treatment for the disorder.

Sometimes physical problems may cause depression. But other times, symptoms of SAD can be part of a deeper and more complex psychiatric problem. A health professional should be the one to determine the level of depression and recommend the right form of treatment.

If you or someone you know has the symptoms of SAD, the first thing to do is see your doctor for a thorough examination to rule out another form of depression or major medical illness.


Here are a few helpful tips for anyone who has been diagnosed with SAD to cope with and even to overcome it:

• Follow a well-balanced diet, including sufficient amounts of vitamins and minerals as recommended by the Canada Food Guide for more energy. This means including fruits, vegetables and whole grains in your daily diet.

• Even though you may not feel like it, spending time outdoors even if it’s a cloudy day is a good idea. The light that filters through the clouds will still benefit you.

• Involvement in social activities and keeping in touch with friends can be a great support during the long and dreary winter months.

• Exercise is recommended by most health professionals. Aiming for a half-hour walk at least three times a week will not only give you exercise, but will also expose you to much coveted daylight.


If you still feel the symptoms after trying all these, do not wait to seek professional help and advice.

Cost of treatment

Dr. Raymond W. Lam is a professor and head of the division of clinical neuroscience, department of psychiatry at the University of British Columbia. He says SAD is a “subtype of clinical depression (major depressive disorder), so it is recognized as an official diagnosis. (Therefore) medical services related to SAD are certainly covered by provincial and workplace plans.”

But the type and the cost of treatment do vary according to provinces. MCP and Blue Cross in Newfoundland, for example, do not cover specific illnesses. Blue Cross, however, will cover certain specific recommended treatments, prescription medicine and counselling by approved psychologists.

As for light therapy, Lam says, “the light devices are reimbursed by some group insurance companies, depending on the coverage policy, but most provincial health plans are very limited in their coverage of medical devices.”

Light therapy is an effective treatment for SAD, as research now shows. It relieves symptoms in about 65 per cent of people affected by the disorder. Sometimes antidepressant medicine is used alone, or in combination with light therapy. Spending time outdoors during the day, as well as maximizing the amount of sunlight you’re exposed to at home and in the office can also be helpful

Many companies that offer extended health insurance coverage recognize the benefits of light therapy, its cost-effectiveness, and significant advantages over antidepressant medication. However, insurance coverage for treatment other than with medication is often limited, because it can increase premiums.

In Canada, a few companies have started reimbursing the cost of a phototherapy device. Phototherapy, a name given to light therapy, is administered by a device that contains white fluorescent light tubes covered with a plastic screen to block ultraviolet rays. The patient doesn’t look directly into the light, but he or she can read, knit or eat while sitting in front of the device at a distance of two to three feet.


Other treatments

Aromatherapy, treatment using scents, is a holistic treatment of the body with pleasant, scented botanical oils such as rose, lemon, lavender and peppermint. The essential oils are added to the bath, massaged into the skin, inhaled directly or diffused to scent an entire room. Aromatherapy helps to relieve the pain, alleviate tension and fatigue, reduce anxiety, promote relaxation and invigorate the entire body.

Certain herbs and plants have also proven to work in treating some cases of SAD. Two of these are St. John’s wort and lavender. Although the mechanism by which St. John’s wort acts as an antidepressant is not fully understood, early research indicated that this herb, which mildly inhibits the enzyme monoamine oxidase, is responsible for the breakdown of two brain chemicals — serotonin and norepinephrine. By inhibiting mono-amine oxidase and increasing nore- pinephrine, St. John’s wort may exert a mild antidepressive action.

Lavender has many uses in culinary, cosmetic and medicinal fields. It is effective for headaches, related to stress; and can be effective in the clearing of depression, especially if used in conjunction with other remedies. As a gentle strengthening tonic of the nervous system, it is used in cases of nervous exhaustion and weakness by promoting natural sleep. Externally, the oil may be used as a stimulating liniment to help ease the aches and pains of rheumatism. For depression, it combines well with rosemary, kola or skullcap.

Despite all the modern discoveries in natural or medical remedies, it is also worthwhile to look back at ancient wisdom. As far as SAD is concerned, no ancient writer offered more compelling advice than the physician A. Cornelius Celsus did to melancholics during the reign of the Roman Emperor Tiberius:

Live in rooms full of light
Avoid heavy food
Be moderate in the drinking of wine
Take massage, baths, exercise and gymnastics.
Fight insomnia with gentle rocking or the sound of running water.
Change surroundings and take long journeys.
Strictly avoid frightening ideas.
Indulge in cheerful conversation and amusements.
Listen to music.


The National Organization for Seasonal Affective Disorder, NOSAD, is a small non-profit organization dedicated to helping people affected by SAD find support and treatment for their illness. Its research group, Society for Light Treatment and Biological Rhythms, has a website at :


www.sltbr.org
Other helpful websites are:
www.ubcsad.ca
www.normanrosenthal.com/
www.canmat.org/depress/index.html



~~~~~~~~~~~

Fascinating Phyllo

Story and Photo : FÜSUN ATALAY ~ Copyright © 2004

Almost every ethnic group whose ancestry goes back to the Middle East has a claim of its own on the scrumptious pastry known as baklava. Although the exact origin of baklava is not known, it is widely believed that the Assyrians of the 8th century were the first people to put together a primitive version of this treat, which was baked only on special occasions.

Greek seamen and merchants travelling east to Mesopotamia discovered and introduced the delights of baklava to Athens. The Greeks’ major contribution to the development of this pastry was the creation of a technique that made it possible to roll the dough as thin as a leaf, compared to the rough, bread-like texture of the Assyrian version. In fact, the name “Phyllo” was coined by the Greeks — it means “leaf.”

As their kingdom was located on ancient spice and silk routes, Armenians integrated cinnamon and cloves into the texture of baklava for the first time. The Arabs introduced the rose-water and cardamom. Thus, the taste of baklava evolved, with subtle nuances, as the recipe started travelling across borders.

To the north of its birthplace, baklava was being baked and served in the palaces of the ancient Persian kingdom. To the west, it was baked in the kitchens of the wealthy Roman mansions and, later, in the kitchens of the Byzantine Empire until the fall of the latter in the 15th century.
In 1453 AD, Ottomans invaded Constantinople and expanded their eastern territories to cover most of ancient Assyrian lands. For 400 years, from the 16th century until the decline of Ottoman Empire in the 19th century, the kitchens of the Imperial Ottoman Palace in Istanbul became the ultimate culinary hub of the empire. Artisans and craftsmen of all guilds, as well as bakers, cooks and pastry chefs were recruited from various ethnic groups that made up the empire.

By the 18th century, there wasn’t much left to add to baklava, as it had been perfected in both taste and texture. The culinary attention, thus, was turned to the shaping and presentation of this delightful pastry.

Until the mid-19th century, baklava was considered a food for the wealthy. Towards the end of the 19th century, small pastry shops started to appear in Istanbul to cater to the middle class, but the Ottoman Palace has always remained the top culinary “academy” of the empire, until its end in 1923 has been the top choice of pastry for Turkish Sultans with their large harems, as well as for the wealthy and their families. A reason for its popularity may be that two major ingredients, walnuts and honey, were believed to be aphrodisiacs when they were taken regularly. Certain spices added to baklava, such as cinnamon, cardamom and cloves, have also been credited with fine-tuning and augmenting the aphrodisiac characteristics of the pastry.

As the empire began opening itself to Western cultural and culinary influences, the general manager of the Imperial Ottoman kitchen didn’t miss the opportunity to hire Monsieur Guillaume, a former pastry chef of Marie Antoinette. Guillaume, who had learned how to bake baklava while he was in exile at the Ottoman Turkish Palace, created the “dome” technique of cutting and folding the baklava squares. The dish was named Baklava Francaise after the nationality of its creator.

Today, many Eastern bakeries and pastry shops in North American metropolitans make or sell baklava, as well as other savoury pastries made with phyllo. Some remain true to tradition and use butter, whereas others have switched to margarine or oil as the fat of choice. But making your own pastry is not difficult.

Phyllo— sometimes also spelled “filo” — is found in the freezer sections of many supermarkets or specialty stores. The rest is as easy as sugar, butter and nuts.

Turkish Baklava

1 package phyllo dough
1-1/2 cups melted, unsalted butter
2 cups walnuts, finely chopped
3 Tbsp. granulated sugar

syrup
1-1/2 cups water
2 cups granulated sugar
1 Tbsp. lemon juice

Be sure to thaw the phyllo thoroughly before working with it. It is important to keep the phyllo covered with the plastic wrap and damp towel to prevent it from drying out. If it dries out, it becomes brittle and difficult to work with.

In a saucepan, combine water with sugar and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down and simmer for 10 minutes. Add lemon juice, stir and set aside to cool completely.

Liberally butter the bottom and sides of a 13 x 9 x 2-inch baking pan. Place half of phyllo sheets in the pan, one at a time, brushing each with melted butter. Do not straighten them out but keep them rather crumbly. This creates air layers and makes the pastry more flaky. (Keep sheets covered with a clean, damp kitchen towel until just ready to use.)

Combine walnuts and remaining sugar; spread evenly over the phyllo in the pan. Cover with the remaining phyllo sheets, brushed with butter between each sheet.

Freeze unbaked pastry for 30 minute to facilitate cutting. Slice into diamond shapes.

Bake at 375 F for 25-30 minutes. Reduce oven to 300 degrees and bake about 20 minutes longer until the pastry takes on a light golden colour.

Remove from the oven and drizzle cooled syrup all over the hot pastry at once. Allow to cool. Baked baklava freezes very well. Bring to room temperature before serving.

~~~~~~~~~

The Art of Spearing

Making a comeback as part of an intimate and leisurely dining style, modern fondues include meat, chicken, and seafood cooked in a pot of cholesterol free oil or fat-free broth. Accompanied by a variety of raw vegetables and an assortment of dipping sauces, fondue has evolved into an enjoyable experience of hot, fresh food at a leisurely pace.

Text and Photography By : Füsun Atalay ~ Copyright © 2006

If the word fondue brings back nostalgic memories of bonding around a pot of bubbling melted cheese, a large plate full of cubed crusty bread, and a few bottles of chilled wine, then you are part of the Baby Boomers who made fondue popular in the 60s and 70s. Like most fashionable trends that sleep a while before a big comeback, fondue is becoming popular in the new millennium as an easy and intimate entertaining style.

Fondue dates back to the 18th century Switzerland when both cheese and wine were important industries of this tiny country. In those times, Swiss peasants baked bread and made cheese in the summer and fall to last through the winter. But by midwinter, both would become rock hard. The frugal peasants found a solution which combined the hardened cheese with wine; and then cooked it over a slow fire. Dipping pieces of the bread into this mixture made a satisfying and delicious meal. Thus, out of necessity, "fondue " was born.

The word "fondue" comes from the French "fondre" which means to melt. The French name indicates the place of origin to the French-speaking Swiss Canton of Neufchatel, although each canton in Switzerland has its own "traditional" style fondue.

Main course fondue was first used in France during the middle ages. Fondue bourguignon, for example, originated in the famous vineyards of Burgundy where local wine makers would send grape pickers out to the vineyards for long hours at a time. The story goes that pots were set up in strategic areas of the vineyard so that meals could be cooked as it became convenient, because food would go bad during the long, hot summer days.

Modern fondue was born when the fondue method of cooking meat cubes in hot oil was re- introduced by chef Konrad Egli of New York’s Chalet Swiss Restaurant in 1956. Within a decade chocolate fondue followed and fondue became a very stylish course on any meal.

With a basic knowledge of the essentials, fondue can make anyone look like a gourmet cook. For cooking meats, the temperature of the fondue oil should be heated to 350o F. This causes the food’s pores to close quickly so that neither juices can escape nor the oil can penetrate.

The best oils to choose for fondue are those used in deep frying. Odourless and flavourless vegetable based oils such as sunflower, peanut, or canola are the best. You can check the oil’s temperature by placing the handle of a wooden spoon into the oil. If small bubbles form around the handle, the oil is ready for cooking.

The traditional fondue pot, "caquelon", is made of heavy earthenware. Variations include enamelled iron or glazed ceramic all of which are heavy to distribute and retain even heat. Fondue is heated on the stove top in the caquelon over low to medium heat, then transferred to the table and placed over an alcohol burner or a hot plate.

Using top quality ingredients such as loin cuts of beef, steak, peeled shrimp, filets of fish, as well as ripe, unblemished fruits and vegetables is the most important step in fondue dining.

Another point worth noting is that placing too many fondue forks into the hot oil at one time will lower the temperature quickly, preventing the ingredients from cooking properly.

Simple vegetable-broth, or fat free chicken stock makes a lighter, calorie-wise base for fondue cooking than the cheese or hot oil versions. Potatoes as well as other vegetables or small bits of seafood are cooked in the simmering pot of broth.

Traditional cheese fondue is made with Emmentaler or Gruyere cheese and seasoned with garlic, pepper and dry white wine. Cherry brandy, or kirsch, is sometimes added to the mixture, which is served as a dip for chunks of bread.

A baguette or any crusty French or Italian style bread is best for a cheese fondue. When you slice the bread leave a bit of the crust on every piece . The crust helps to keep the bread on the fork after it is placed in the cheese. But dippers don’t have to be limited to bread. Steamed, diced potatoes or steamed vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, asparagus and baby carrots also make healthy and tasty dippers.

Dessert fondues are the ultimate finish to an intimate meal. Chocolate fondue is still a favourite for dipping strawberries, bananas, grapes, oranges or even, cubes of pound cake or angel food cake.

Fondue Etiquette

Fondue is a communal meal that dictates a few basic rules of decorum. To enjoy a meat fondue, spear a piece of meat, dip it in the hot oil, and let it sit until the meat is cooked to your preference. Remove the fork and place it on your plate, use your dining fork to slide the meat off the fondue fork. Use your regular fork to dip the meat in the sauce of your choice, and eating your tasty morsel.

For cheese fondue spear a piece of bread using a fondue fork to dip it into the pot. Turn the bread cube to coat it with cheese . Allow the excess cheese drip and cool a little before you put the coated bread in your mouth. Just as double dipping is frowned upon, so is touching the fork with your lips or tongue, as the fork does go back in the pot. Ideally you should use a dining fork to slide the bread off the fondue fork and eat it with the second fork.

Whether it’s a simple cheese fondue, or an elaborate assortment of meats and vegetables, followed by warm, decadent chocolate with an array of dippers, there is something very cosy and festive about a group of friends or family gathered around a table, dipping food impaled on long handled forks into a communal pot. Here are three fondue recipes to inspire party ideas in the new year.

Classic Swiss Fondue ~ Serves 4

1 clove garlic, halved
8 fl oz dry white wine, or rose wine
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 cups grated Gruyere cheese
2 cups grated Emmental cheese
1 teaspoon cornflour
1 teaspoon dry mustard
2 Tablespoons kirsch
Freshly ground nutmeg and pepper to taste

Rub inside of the fondue pot with the cut clove of garlic.

Pour in wine and lemon juice and heat gently until the liquid begins to bubble.

Reduce the heat to low, and gradually stir in grated cheeses. Continue to heat, stirring frequently, until the cheeses melt.

In a small bowl, blend cornflour with kirsch to a smooth consistency.

Stir into cheese mixture and continue stirring for 2-3 minutes until mixture is thickened and smooth.
Transfer to a fondue pot.

Orange-Chocolate Fondue

½ cup evaporated milk or light cream
2 cups semisweet chocolate chips
½ cup honey
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 Tablespoons orange flavored liqueur
OR
1 teaspoon grated orange peel AND 2 teaspoons orange juice

Combine evaporated milk or cream, chocolate pieces, honey and butter in fondue pot or heavy saucepan. Place over low heat and cook, stirring constantly until chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Blend in liqueur and vanilla. Keep mixture warm over low heat of fondue burner. Serves 6 to 8.

Dippers

Strawberries, banana slices (dipped in lemon juice to prevent oxidation), pineapple chunks, mandarin orange segments, orange slices, grapes, melon balls, kiwi fruit slices, pound cake cubes, lady fingers, marshmallows, angel food cake cubes and vanilla wafers.

Copyrighted Material ~ Copyright © 2006 All Rights belong to Füsun Atalay

Scholarly Sleuths

Füsun Atalay ~ Copyright © 2004

When Professor Linne Mooney, Visiting Fellow at Corpus Christi College of Cambridge University, identified Adam Pinkhurst as the mystery scribe of Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales last July, the news may have seemed insignificant to many in the greater scheme of things. However, her discovery created much celebration and excitement among the medievalists and scholars of manuscripts around the world.

As far as we can tell, when Chaucer died in 1400, he had not completed The Canterbury Tales in their entirety as he may have planned them. His death preceded the introduction of print by William Caxton to England by seventy-six years. Thus all the early copies of Chaucer's works are in manuscript form. What is known was that, among others, Chaucer had employed a scribe by the name of Adam who made two copies of these tales which have survived until today.

Scholars have long accepted that both copies of these tales were written by the same hand; however, they had no information about the identity (except for his first name), the origins, the home or the work(s) of the scribe.

Mooney’s discovery came as a result of her painstaking work on a catalogue of late medieval English scribes. Her identification of Adam Pinkhurst is based on her analysis of the latter’s handwriting, as he signed his oath upon joining the Scriveners Company of London shortly after 1392, where he was trained in writing and in the correct forms for legal documents.

This kind of painstaking work and unwavering devotion is not unusual for medievalists like Mooney, who teaches medieval English at the University of Maine. Medievalist scholars spend many years of intense research, following minute leads and clues that are indiscernible to the untrained eye. In a sense they are akin to detectives who follow small leads to enlighten our knowledge of the past in literature or history. Like archeologists, they try to reconstruct bits and pieces of the past based on their research and identify history’s contribution to art and literature.

Dr. William (Bill) Schipper, a professor of English and a medievalist at the Memorial University of St. John’s, confirms this similarity. "Every time I look at a manuscript, I see new clues . Although not every one of these is as significant as the one Professor Mooney found," he says, "they often lead to new insights."

Schipper’s favourite clues always come in the margins of manuscripts. "All manuscripts are handwritten books and medieval readers have frequently left traces of their activity such as annotations, or cryptic notes in the margins of these books."

Schipper discovered one such clue in 1993 when he took a group of MUN students to England for six weeks, during which time he persuaded the librarians at the British Library to let him to look at the Benedictional of St. Ethelwald, a beautifully illustrated manuscript book originally made for an archbishop of Winchester during the tenth century.

"Very few people are allowed to see this book in person," he recalls. "But I was looking for annotations in the margins, and the microfilm copy they wanted me to look at first was made from the 1905 printed facsimile which would have made it impossible to see anything of interest."

Thus, the librarians relented, and within half an hour Schipper discovered a number of dry point notes (scratched notes, made with a stylus) which after considerable research on his part turned out to pre-date the production of the manuscript itself, and thus provided an insight into the process by which the book was put together.

No one had ever noticed these despite two hundred years of careful scrutiny, because no one had bothered to look in the margins of this particular manuscript.

Schipper who spent his sabbatical leave this past year at Clare Hall as a Visiting Fellow, a part of Cambridge University, has devoted much of his time to studying the writings of Hrabanus Maurus, a ninth century German monk who was Abbott of the Monastery in Fulda, Germany, for two decades between 822 and 842 AD, as well as the Archbishop of Mainz from 847 to 856 AD.

While studying the letters of Hrabanus, written in Latin, Schipper suddenly began to notice the presence of a personal voice that Hrabanus employs through his use of singular and plural forms of the first person pronouns and verbs.

"At first these seemed arbitrary," says Schipper. "However, in one letter in particular, where Hrabanus begins in the first person plural (we), he suddenly shifts to the first person singular (I) when he reminds his correspondent, The Bishop of Utrecht, that the latter has not yet returned a book, which Hrabanus had loaned him several years earlier. Once he has given this reminder, he switches back to the ‘we’ form in keeping with the rest of the letter."

"That was the clue which alerted me that these shifts from the first person plural to first person singular were not arbitrary, but were careful selections to express his thoughts," says Schipper, as he points out that it is often said "...the personal voice was not something widely used until the Eleventh Century."

That was the "Bingo!" moment for Schipper, who admits it is always a great thrill to uncover the meaning of something that others have either ignored or dismissed.

Another such moment came to him during the 1980's when he was studying some Latin glosses in Old English manuscripts. At the front of one of these manuscripts was half a page of Latin-English word pairs all of which had been crossed out. He discussed these with the late Peter Hunter Blair, a well-known historian, who dismissed them as insignificant.

"I persisted," says Schipper who did not think that they were insignificant.

Thus he started looking up the English words in an Old and Modern English Dictionary when he noticed that there was a correlation between the words in this list and in one of the texts in the particular manuscript he was studying. When he looked at the words in their contexts in the manuscripts, he saw that the Latin part of the word pair had been written above the English words in the text.

What did this all mean?

Schipper’s discovery is indeed thrilling: "It turned out that this list of words that had been dismissed by other scholars was, in fact, the beginning of a Latin - English bilingual dictionary."

Whether it is identifying an ancient scribe, discovering a personal voice prior to the Eleventh Century, or interpreting scribbles from the margins of a manuscript - these are the kinds of things that keep scholars going back to the manuscripts over and over again, feeling certain that studying each line, a crossed out word, or a faded name can bring a new discovery and shed some light on the past.

Schipper agrees. "The kind of seemingly insignificant detective work can prove just as important as mainstream literary criticism, and that’s what makes it worthwhile," he says.

This material is copyrighted © . All rights belong to Füsun Atalay ~ Copyright © 2004