The Art of Spearing

Making a comeback as part of an intimate and leisurely dining style, modern fondues include meat, chicken, and seafood cooked in a pot of cholesterol free oil or fat-free broth. Accompanied by a variety of raw vegetables and an assortment of dipping sauces, fondue has evolved into an enjoyable experience of hot, fresh food at a leisurely pace.

Text and Photography By : Füsun Atalay ~ Copyright © 2006

If the word fondue brings back nostalgic memories of bonding around a pot of bubbling melted cheese, a large plate full of cubed crusty bread, and a few bottles of chilled wine, then you are part of the Baby Boomers who made fondue popular in the 60s and 70s. Like most fashionable trends that sleep a while before a big comeback, fondue is becoming popular in the new millennium as an easy and intimate entertaining style.

Fondue dates back to the 18th century Switzerland when both cheese and wine were important industries of this tiny country. In those times, Swiss peasants baked bread and made cheese in the summer and fall to last through the winter. But by midwinter, both would become rock hard. The frugal peasants found a solution which combined the hardened cheese with wine; and then cooked it over a slow fire. Dipping pieces of the bread into this mixture made a satisfying and delicious meal. Thus, out of necessity, "fondue " was born.

The word "fondue" comes from the French "fondre" which means to melt. The French name indicates the place of origin to the French-speaking Swiss Canton of Neufchatel, although each canton in Switzerland has its own "traditional" style fondue.

Main course fondue was first used in France during the middle ages. Fondue bourguignon, for example, originated in the famous vineyards of Burgundy where local wine makers would send grape pickers out to the vineyards for long hours at a time. The story goes that pots were set up in strategic areas of the vineyard so that meals could be cooked as it became convenient, because food would go bad during the long, hot summer days.

Modern fondue was born when the fondue method of cooking meat cubes in hot oil was re- introduced by chef Konrad Egli of New York’s Chalet Swiss Restaurant in 1956. Within a decade chocolate fondue followed and fondue became a very stylish course on any meal.

With a basic knowledge of the essentials, fondue can make anyone look like a gourmet cook. For cooking meats, the temperature of the fondue oil should be heated to 350o F. This causes the food’s pores to close quickly so that neither juices can escape nor the oil can penetrate.

The best oils to choose for fondue are those used in deep frying. Odourless and flavourless vegetable based oils such as sunflower, peanut, or canola are the best. You can check the oil’s temperature by placing the handle of a wooden spoon into the oil. If small bubbles form around the handle, the oil is ready for cooking.

The traditional fondue pot, "caquelon", is made of heavy earthenware. Variations include enamelled iron or glazed ceramic all of which are heavy to distribute and retain even heat. Fondue is heated on the stove top in the caquelon over low to medium heat, then transferred to the table and placed over an alcohol burner or a hot plate.

Using top quality ingredients such as loin cuts of beef, steak, peeled shrimp, filets of fish, as well as ripe, unblemished fruits and vegetables is the most important step in fondue dining.

Another point worth noting is that placing too many fondue forks into the hot oil at one time will lower the temperature quickly, preventing the ingredients from cooking properly.

Simple vegetable-broth, or fat free chicken stock makes a lighter, calorie-wise base for fondue cooking than the cheese or hot oil versions. Potatoes as well as other vegetables or small bits of seafood are cooked in the simmering pot of broth.

Traditional cheese fondue is made with Emmentaler or Gruyere cheese and seasoned with garlic, pepper and dry white wine. Cherry brandy, or kirsch, is sometimes added to the mixture, which is served as a dip for chunks of bread.

A baguette or any crusty French or Italian style bread is best for a cheese fondue. When you slice the bread leave a bit of the crust on every piece . The crust helps to keep the bread on the fork after it is placed in the cheese. But dippers don’t have to be limited to bread. Steamed, diced potatoes or steamed vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, asparagus and baby carrots also make healthy and tasty dippers.

Dessert fondues are the ultimate finish to an intimate meal. Chocolate fondue is still a favourite for dipping strawberries, bananas, grapes, oranges or even, cubes of pound cake or angel food cake.

Fondue Etiquette

Fondue is a communal meal that dictates a few basic rules of decorum. To enjoy a meat fondue, spear a piece of meat, dip it in the hot oil, and let it sit until the meat is cooked to your preference. Remove the fork and place it on your plate, use your dining fork to slide the meat off the fondue fork. Use your regular fork to dip the meat in the sauce of your choice, and eating your tasty morsel.

For cheese fondue spear a piece of bread using a fondue fork to dip it into the pot. Turn the bread cube to coat it with cheese . Allow the excess cheese drip and cool a little before you put the coated bread in your mouth. Just as double dipping is frowned upon, so is touching the fork with your lips or tongue, as the fork does go back in the pot. Ideally you should use a dining fork to slide the bread off the fondue fork and eat it with the second fork.

Whether it’s a simple cheese fondue, or an elaborate assortment of meats and vegetables, followed by warm, decadent chocolate with an array of dippers, there is something very cosy and festive about a group of friends or family gathered around a table, dipping food impaled on long handled forks into a communal pot. Here are three fondue recipes to inspire party ideas in the new year.

Classic Swiss Fondue ~ Serves 4

1 clove garlic, halved
8 fl oz dry white wine, or rose wine
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 cups grated Gruyere cheese
2 cups grated Emmental cheese
1 teaspoon cornflour
1 teaspoon dry mustard
2 Tablespoons kirsch
Freshly ground nutmeg and pepper to taste

Rub inside of the fondue pot with the cut clove of garlic.

Pour in wine and lemon juice and heat gently until the liquid begins to bubble.

Reduce the heat to low, and gradually stir in grated cheeses. Continue to heat, stirring frequently, until the cheeses melt.

In a small bowl, blend cornflour with kirsch to a smooth consistency.

Stir into cheese mixture and continue stirring for 2-3 minutes until mixture is thickened and smooth.
Transfer to a fondue pot.

Orange-Chocolate Fondue

½ cup evaporated milk or light cream
2 cups semisweet chocolate chips
½ cup honey
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 Tablespoons orange flavored liqueur
OR
1 teaspoon grated orange peel AND 2 teaspoons orange juice

Combine evaporated milk or cream, chocolate pieces, honey and butter in fondue pot or heavy saucepan. Place over low heat and cook, stirring constantly until chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Blend in liqueur and vanilla. Keep mixture warm over low heat of fondue burner. Serves 6 to 8.

Dippers

Strawberries, banana slices (dipped in lemon juice to prevent oxidation), pineapple chunks, mandarin orange segments, orange slices, grapes, melon balls, kiwi fruit slices, pound cake cubes, lady fingers, marshmallows, angel food cake cubes and vanilla wafers.

Copyrighted Material ~ Copyright © 2006 All Rights belong to Füsun Atalay

Scholarly Sleuths

Füsun Atalay ~ Copyright © 2004

When Professor Linne Mooney, Visiting Fellow at Corpus Christi College of Cambridge University, identified Adam Pinkhurst as the mystery scribe of Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales last July, the news may have seemed insignificant to many in the greater scheme of things. However, her discovery created much celebration and excitement among the medievalists and scholars of manuscripts around the world.

As far as we can tell, when Chaucer died in 1400, he had not completed The Canterbury Tales in their entirety as he may have planned them. His death preceded the introduction of print by William Caxton to England by seventy-six years. Thus all the early copies of Chaucer's works are in manuscript form. What is known was that, among others, Chaucer had employed a scribe by the name of Adam who made two copies of these tales which have survived until today.

Scholars have long accepted that both copies of these tales were written by the same hand; however, they had no information about the identity (except for his first name), the origins, the home or the work(s) of the scribe.

Mooney’s discovery came as a result of her painstaking work on a catalogue of late medieval English scribes. Her identification of Adam Pinkhurst is based on her analysis of the latter’s handwriting, as he signed his oath upon joining the Scriveners Company of London shortly after 1392, where he was trained in writing and in the correct forms for legal documents.

This kind of painstaking work and unwavering devotion is not unusual for medievalists like Mooney, who teaches medieval English at the University of Maine. Medievalist scholars spend many years of intense research, following minute leads and clues that are indiscernible to the untrained eye. In a sense they are akin to detectives who follow small leads to enlighten our knowledge of the past in literature or history. Like archeologists, they try to reconstruct bits and pieces of the past based on their research and identify history’s contribution to art and literature.

Dr. William (Bill) Schipper, a professor of English and a medievalist at the Memorial University of St. John’s, confirms this similarity. "Every time I look at a manuscript, I see new clues . Although not every one of these is as significant as the one Professor Mooney found," he says, "they often lead to new insights."

Schipper’s favourite clues always come in the margins of manuscripts. "All manuscripts are handwritten books and medieval readers have frequently left traces of their activity such as annotations, or cryptic notes in the margins of these books."

Schipper discovered one such clue in 1993 when he took a group of MUN students to England for six weeks, during which time he persuaded the librarians at the British Library to let him to look at the Benedictional of St. Ethelwald, a beautifully illustrated manuscript book originally made for an archbishop of Winchester during the tenth century.

"Very few people are allowed to see this book in person," he recalls. "But I was looking for annotations in the margins, and the microfilm copy they wanted me to look at first was made from the 1905 printed facsimile which would have made it impossible to see anything of interest."

Thus, the librarians relented, and within half an hour Schipper discovered a number of dry point notes (scratched notes, made with a stylus) which after considerable research on his part turned out to pre-date the production of the manuscript itself, and thus provided an insight into the process by which the book was put together.

No one had ever noticed these despite two hundred years of careful scrutiny, because no one had bothered to look in the margins of this particular manuscript.

Schipper who spent his sabbatical leave this past year at Clare Hall as a Visiting Fellow, a part of Cambridge University, has devoted much of his time to studying the writings of Hrabanus Maurus, a ninth century German monk who was Abbott of the Monastery in Fulda, Germany, for two decades between 822 and 842 AD, as well as the Archbishop of Mainz from 847 to 856 AD.

While studying the letters of Hrabanus, written in Latin, Schipper suddenly began to notice the presence of a personal voice that Hrabanus employs through his use of singular and plural forms of the first person pronouns and verbs.

"At first these seemed arbitrary," says Schipper. "However, in one letter in particular, where Hrabanus begins in the first person plural (we), he suddenly shifts to the first person singular (I) when he reminds his correspondent, The Bishop of Utrecht, that the latter has not yet returned a book, which Hrabanus had loaned him several years earlier. Once he has given this reminder, he switches back to the ‘we’ form in keeping with the rest of the letter."

"That was the clue which alerted me that these shifts from the first person plural to first person singular were not arbitrary, but were careful selections to express his thoughts," says Schipper, as he points out that it is often said "...the personal voice was not something widely used until the Eleventh Century."

That was the "Bingo!" moment for Schipper, who admits it is always a great thrill to uncover the meaning of something that others have either ignored or dismissed.

Another such moment came to him during the 1980's when he was studying some Latin glosses in Old English manuscripts. At the front of one of these manuscripts was half a page of Latin-English word pairs all of which had been crossed out. He discussed these with the late Peter Hunter Blair, a well-known historian, who dismissed them as insignificant.

"I persisted," says Schipper who did not think that they were insignificant.

Thus he started looking up the English words in an Old and Modern English Dictionary when he noticed that there was a correlation between the words in this list and in one of the texts in the particular manuscript he was studying. When he looked at the words in their contexts in the manuscripts, he saw that the Latin part of the word pair had been written above the English words in the text.

What did this all mean?

Schipper’s discovery is indeed thrilling: "It turned out that this list of words that had been dismissed by other scholars was, in fact, the beginning of a Latin - English bilingual dictionary."

Whether it is identifying an ancient scribe, discovering a personal voice prior to the Eleventh Century, or interpreting scribbles from the margins of a manuscript - these are the kinds of things that keep scholars going back to the manuscripts over and over again, feeling certain that studying each line, a crossed out word, or a faded name can bring a new discovery and shed some light on the past.

Schipper agrees. "The kind of seemingly insignificant detective work can prove just as important as mainstream literary criticism, and that’s what makes it worthwhile," he says.

This material is copyrighted © . All rights belong to Füsun Atalay ~ Copyright © 2004

Pub Culture

Text and Photography by Füsun Atalay © 2004

Acknowledgment: My research on this topic is based on first hand experiences of pubs in Cambridge, England as well as knowledge I gained by reading material on the Internet.

"No, Sir; there is nothing which has yet been contrived by man, by which so much happiness is produced as by a good tavern."

~ Samuel Johnson, 1776 ~

Just what is it about pubs that have attracted people from seventeen to seventy - and even older - not only to enjoy a brew, but also to forget the woes of the world as they engaged in animated interaction, played games or sang their favouite songs in informal, cosy surroundings ?

Rhetorical question ?

Maybe.

But pubs, throughout history, have been more than just a shop where drinks were sold and meals were consumed. They were as important to a community just as its churches were.For centuries the pub has been a place where friends met, colleagues talked shop, and businessmen negotiated deals. They were establishments where people gathered to celebrate, shoot darts, sing songs or seek simple, quiet relaxation.

Due to changes in the law, many pubs now are places for families with old and young members, re-establishing themselves as places to eat. Many pubs may also provide affordable ccommodation, especially in rural areas; and in remote communities pubs often serve also as church or post office.

So how has the pub evolved its unique role in English life?

The term 'pub' was coined by the Victorians, as an abbreviation of 'public house'. It was the Romans who gave England its first 'pubs' almost two thousand years ago. In Roman towns tabernae, recognizable by vine leaves displayed outside to advertise their trade, served food, wine, and probably local ale. Unfortunately, when the Romans left, the tabernae also disappeared.

Over the next few centuries invaders came and went, and occasionally settled. One thing the invaders all had in common was their fondness for drinking. They had an unquenchable thirst for ale, which was brewed using malted barley, water and yeast. It was sweet and powerful, but did not keep as it soured easily.

To produce good ales skill was needed . As with all skills, some people were better at brewing than were others. Those who made good ale sold it within and beyond their villages.

The ale was sometimes consumed at the brewer's house and so, the informal alehouse was born. However this arrangement was likely to be part-time or when the brewer had enough money to brew. History testifies that as early as the seventh century the number of ale-sellers was restricted by Ethelbert, the King of Kent, so it would seem the population was becoming a little too skilful at brewing.

Meanwhile, the increase in industries and the growth of population began worsening the already polluted water supply. Thus, ale became the only safe drink and the increase in demand made alehouses take on a permanent role.

The Church's influence did not lessen the English thirst for ale; so the Church adopted many Pagan rituals involving drinking. Ales brewed especially for church festivals or to raise funds were known as 'scot ales', and those who brewed secretly to avoid giving the church its share were drinking 'scot free'.

During the reign of Elizabeth I (1558-1603) England began to assert herself in the world through trade and exploration, as well as military might. Population growth and a changing economy saw the expansion and creation of towns. Population in urban areas settled permanently as the professional classes of lawyers, bankers, and civil servants started prospering.

The taverns developed in the towns in those times sold only wine. The fundamental difference between the tavern and the alehouse was that the former was a place for leisure and pleasure, whereas the latter was a place of necessity. In the alehouse, the poor found shelter and relief from their plight spending the little money they had, to sustain themselves.

Taverns on the other hand, catered to the professional classes by offering better food, drink, and many other comforts which they could afford.The romantic, nineteenth century pictures of the cosy taverns, with customers gathered in animated conversation, smoking pipes and quaffing ales around a crackling fireplace, hang in many modern pubs.

That was a time when taverns thrived. Although the clientele may have been wealthier than those who frequented the alehouses, their behaviour not always suited their social rank. There was much drunkenness, since it was not disapproved of as it is today. Consequently, taverns attracted con-artists and prostitutes who fleeced the inebriated, unsuspecting patrons.

Today, whether they are called gastropub, brasserie or bistro, pubs are found all over the world.

They bring together friends, families, employees, retirees or tourists to socialize, enjoy a meal and taste beer on tap or in the bottle. The mood is jovial, the atmosphere warm and friendly.

The hustle and bustle during lunch or happy hour and the friendly, unpretentious service are some of the trade marks that distinguish many pubs from other social establishments.Pubs offer generous, tasty meals at reasonable prices.

Depending on their location and clientele, pub fares may vary. However, one of the traditional fares is the Ploughman's Lunch, which includes a large piece of cheese, a piece of bread, pickles and a pint of beer. Fish and chips or grilled fish, fries and salad are traditional items in pub menus. Pubs also serve meat pies, hamburger steak with fries, chili or slices of roast beef with thick slices of dark bread, lettuce and tomatoes.

Keeping with modern trends, curries, lasagna, and mussels have been added to the menus.Whether it is the food or the atmosphere that attracts patrons to a pub, one thing they are sure to find is a warm, welcome feeling of being among kindred spirits who share topics of common interests, carry on lively conversation, and forget the burdens of the world for a while in an age of ever-growing concerns.

Here is an easy to prepare pub-inspired recipe which goes a long way in taste.

Lamb Shanks Braised in Stout
Source: Man Made Food

6 x 450 g lamb shanks
1/4 cup vegetable oil
salt and pepper, to taste
2 large white onions, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 Tbsp sugar
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
3 cups stout
3 cups beef stock
1 bay leaf
3 sprigs fresh thyme
3 sprigs fresh parsley
Preheat oven to 350F.

In a large heavy Dutch oven, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Season the lamb shanks and brown in batches, 2 or 3 at a time. When browned all over, remove the shanks to a plate and set aside.

If there is a lot of fat remaining, remove all but 2 – 3 tbsp. Reduce heat to medium and add the onions and garlic. Season and saute until the onions begin to soften. Add the sugar and the flour and continue to cook for several minutes. Raise the heat to high and add the stout and beef stock, stirring constantly.

Bury the shanks in the braising base, add the parsley and thyme and bring to a boil. Cover with the lid and place the Dutch oven in the preheated oven. Cook for 2 hours or until the shanks are meltingly tender. Remove the herbs and serve.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Copyrighted Material ~ Copyright © 2004 All Rights belong to Füsun Atalay

The Versatile Rhizome

Text and Photography

By:

Füsun Atalay ~ Copyright © 2006

It is used as an aromatic spice in baking, a flavoring in marinating and beverages, or part of the main ingredients in cooking. It can be chopped, sliced. grated, juiced, dried, powdered, candied or pickled. Although it’s a subtropical plant, it’s available year round, and in spite of being commonly referred to as a root, it’s really a rhizome.

If you guessed that this versatile plant is ginger, you’re right on the money.

Ginger first originated in southern China, before its cultivation spread to India, Southeast Asia, West Africa, and the Caribbean. Today, it’s used as an indispensable spice in many cuisines of the world.

Fresh ginger is found at most supermarkets. Look for unblemished smooth skin. Breaking off a piece of the rhizome, called a ‘hand’, doesn't jeopardize the integrity of the whole, thus you can buy as much or as little as you need. The break should be clean and snappy, indicating the freshness of the ginger.

At home, store your purchase in the fridge for a month. You can also freeze fingers of ginger in freezer bags, and grate or slice them into soups, stir fries and other recipes that call for it


Peeling ginger is not a difficult task, and even a spoon will do the job nicely. Hold the ginger in the palm of one hand while you scrape the peel off with the spoon in the other- and voila- you have peeled ginger without even reaching out for fancy peelers! When you use ginger for sugar syrup, tea or marinades from which it will be retrieved, you don’t need to peel it.


Besides its many culinary uses ginger has its own health promoting virtues. Because it stimulates the production of saliva and digestive fluids, its most common use is for relieving indigestion, stomach cramps, gas pains and diarrhea. Perhaps for this reason ginger ale is a common and soothing drink we reach out for during times of upset stomach.

Ginger has been attributed with anti-inflammatory properties, treating nausea, cleansing the body from toxins by stimulating blood circulation and even helping to break fever by warming the body to increase perspiration.

Ginger in the kitchen

While dried and crystallized ginger take up center stage mostly for baking, fresh ginger in all its other forms- fresh, grated, sliced, julienned and pickled enhance our dishes with flavors ranging from spicy-sweetness to intense pepperiness. In cookies, breads, candies and preserves ginger forms great friendships with sweet warmth of cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and cloves. In savory recipes it gets along well with the spicy tease of garlic, coriander, and cumin.

*Top grilled fish with a dollop of compound butter made by adding grated ginger and lime zest to butter at room temperature and stirring until well combined. Refrigerate until use.

Mix grated fresh ginger, minced garlic, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Pour over chicken, fish, or meat as a delicious marinade.

* Peel and slice fresh ginger. Store in a mild, dry sherry to use the base for a tasty pan gravy for chicken or veal.

*Dip crystallized ginger discs in melted chocolate to add variety to a dessert plate.

*Next time you're making pancakes, stir a couple of teaspoons of finely minced crystallized ginger into the batter for a spicy-sweet surprise.

Ginger-Lime Halibut Steaks ~ Serves 4
4 (6 ounce) halibut steaks
1/4 cup lime juice
2 teaspoons ginger juice
1 clove garlic, crushed
pinch ground chili powder
Nonstick cooking spray

Place fish in a shallow glass baking dish.
Mix remaining ingredients together in a small bowl.

Add marinade, turn fish once to coat.
Cover and refrigerate from1 to 16 hours, turning occasionally.
Spray grill rack with nonstick cooking spray.

Grill fish 4 inches from heat over a medium heat for 7-10 minutes per side or until fish flakes easily with a fork. Frequently brush with remaining marinade while cooking.
Discard any remaining marinade. Fish can also be broiled.

Chewy Ginger Snaps
½ cup butter, softened
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup dark molasses
1 egg
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 cups flour
½ teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon salt
3.5 ounces crystallized ginger, chopped coarsely

Preheat oven to 375F.
Combine softened butter, sugar, molasses and egg.
Using a mixer, beat well.
Stir in crystallized ginger.
Sift dry ingredients together.
Add to wet mixture.
Mix well.
Form 1 inch balls.
Roll in granulated sugar.
Place on greased cookie sheet, 2 inches apart.
Bake 8-10 minutes.
Makes 3 dozen cookies.

Copyrighted Material ~ Copyright © 2006 All Rights belong to Füsun Atalay